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Twilight Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cosmic Thing T 
Free Me 
Free Me (free) T 
Rome In a Day S 
Sunset Arete S 
Unknown T 
Without Wheels T 

Twilight Buttress  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kBobby on Jun 20, 2005
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Description 

A northeast-facing granite buttress with both crack climbing and face climbing at low elevation and a sense of solitude. Most routes are in the .10s and .11s, with a couple of nice aid climbs as well. The most striking line has got to be Sunset Arete, with its varnished patina face climbing through solution pockets.

All routes except For Lorne can be descended with a single 60m rope.

In the summer, the buttress is in the sun in the morning, but shaded in the late afternoon.

Getting There 

Driving from BCC and LCC: take Wasatch Blvd south to about 11000 S., where it turns west (at 1700 E). There is a LDS church and a park on the outside corner of this turn. Park at the park.

Follow a paved trail SE until it meets an old dirt road towards the Shoreline Trail. Follow this steep road past a baracade and up... and up... When you get to a concrete catchment, cross the stream and bushwhack to the obvious granite buttress. It looks like there was once a trail, but many trees have fallen and erased it. Approach time ~ 35 min.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Twilight Buttress:
Sunset Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unknown   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Without Wheels   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Twilight Buttress

Featured Route For Twilight Buttress

Without Wheels 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Twilight Buttress
The route climbs a steep and slabby corner system on the lower half, then climbs an arete on the upper half. The crux is on the beautiful lower dihedral section from the 1st through the second bolt. The seam has some side pulls off of a few finger tips pods. Delicate stemming required! The upper arete is substantially easier, with a couple of touchy 5.9ish moves above some gear placements.You can A0 the lower section if needed....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 7, 2011
CONDITION REPORT 
There is a gate blocking access to the Big Willow watershed. Inter alia, this means the twilight buttress is inaccessible (unless you want to pay a $1940 fine). WTF?