Tweener Act 5.10b R
| 138 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Drew Spaulding, Dan Hackett, Oct. 3, 2012 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Drew Spaulding on Oct 20, 2012 |
| |
Tweener Act starts out on the S.S.D. (Eat Or Be Ea...
Add Photo  Printer View
2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
|
|
Description On October 3, 2012, I onsighted (belayed by Dan Hackett) the "improbable feature" to the left of "Eat Or Be Eaten".... We don't know if anyone has done this variation before, but it is well worth the effort!! Climb the 5.6 corner to start, then keep left at its top to gain the broken ledge at the base of the "Kor Direct" 2nd pitch. Start up the "Kor Direct", instead of trending left to black rock, continue up and right to the obvious, 2" crack that disappears up into the clean face (I've up climbed this way and traversed back left to the "Kor Direct" and is a fun way to go also...). Place a few bomber cams in the disappearing crack. Step out right below a shallow, right-facing, seamless corner that leads up into the wide looking crack out the left side of the roof above. A series of runout liebacks brings you under the roof where you place a reachy, thin nut before continuing.... A 3.5" cam protects the steep, wide slot up to 5.9 climbing above....
I feel the difficulty was very similar to the the roofy cruxes at the top of "Eat Or Be Eaten" with an "R" rating. This is really an awesome pitch at 5.10b R (120').
Protection Standard Eldo rack (variety of sizes).
|
RSS Feed
more...
