|Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Drew Spaulding, Dan Hackett, Oct. 3, 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||195|
|Submitted By: ||Drew Spaulding on Oct 20, 2012|
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BETA PHOTO: Tweener Act climbs up between Kor Direct and Eat O...
On October 3, 2012, I onsighted (belayed by Dan Hackett) the "improbable feature" to the left of "Eat Or Be Eaten".... We don't know if anyone has done this variation before, but it is well worth the effort!! Climb the 5.6 corner to start, then keep left at its top to gain the broken ledge at the base of the "Kor Direct" 2nd pitch. Start up the "Kor Direct", instead of trending left to black rock, continue up and right to the obvious, 2" crack that disappears up into the clean face (I've up climbed this way and traversed back left to the "Kor Direct" and is a fun way to go also...). Place a few bomber cams in the disappearing crack. Step out right below a shallow, right-facing, seamless corner that leads up into the wide looking crack out the left side of the roof above. A series of runout liebacks brings you under the roof where you place a reachy, thin nut before continuing.... A 3.5" cam protects the steep, wide slot up to 5.9 climbing above....
I feel the difficulty was very similar to the the roofy cruxes at the top of "Eat Or Be Eaten" with an "R" rating. This is really an awesome pitch at 5.10b R (120').
Standard Eldo rack (variety of sizes).
Tweener Act starts out on the S.S.D. (Eat Or Be Ea...