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Tweaked Unit 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Wes Allen, Stephanie Meadows, JATD crew, 2006
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Sep 27, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Pano shot from below.

Description 

This route is a beautiful and technical face that is slightly overhanging to near vertical most of the way. Use amazing iron oxide rails most of the way to negotiate the send.

There are three bolted lines on this section of wall, Tweaked climbs the center one with a vertical gash/rail about half way up. Pull up through crimps and iron oxide to get to the first bolt. Move through some tricky pockets to get to the next set of rails. Move into the vertical gash (crux) and work out the technical sequence for a few more bolts. Enjoy iron oxides to the last few bolts, then make a few more technical moves to the anchors.

Location 

From the approach trail turn left when met with the base of the wall. Walk left 30 yards past a dihedral until the trail meets the face again. This is the center line. Look for the gash about half way up.

Protection 

9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 27, 2011

Don't forget to turn around and enjoy the view. An endless view of both the north and south facing cliffs opposite one another.
By Eric Hirst
Nov 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great warm down to give your shoulders a rest after the nearby Amarillo Sunset. Really nice movement with a well protected fingery crux.
Iron oxide holds at the base of the climb
Iron oxide holds at the base of the climb