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Tusher canyon is a traditional climbing area, and offers a ton of untouched rock. There are a couple of summits in the canyon, and plenty of solid cracks. The climbing in Tusher is in the early stages (there are very few fixed pieces). This makes for well thought out and exciting descents. Of the routes we have put up in the area we have still yet to use anything fixed. Some classics are Waldens Room on the House of Putterman, Hypercrack on Merrimac Butte, and Echo Pinnacle. The rock is mostly friendly on the hands but you will find the sandpaper now and then. The camping is free but please leave no trace, this is a great area and I would hate to see it restricted.
Take the highway north out of Moab for about thirteen miles, at mile marker 14 or thereabouts Mill Creek road will be on your left. Cross the tracks and continue down the dirt road. At the first Y take a right and keep going to another Y. Follow the sign to the Merrimac jeep trail. The road will keep going west and dump you into the wash. Drive the wash until you have to stop after a half mile. A 4WD with good clearance can get into Tusher, but low clearance vehicles shouldn't even try. If walking, after two miles you will see an open canyon on the right (House Of Putterman area - it is a fat tower with a goose neck shape on top), and if you keep going another mile and a half and you will hit the Echo Pinnacle area. Merrimac and Monitor Buttes are another half mile past that. E-mail me and I can send a better description of the directions.
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Browse More Classics in Tusher Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tusher Canyon:
Monitor Butte, The Plunge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 175' Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 200' Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
Featured Route For Tusher Canyon
Without A Net 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X UT : Moab Area : ... : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
This climb is an experience you won't forget. For the most part, this might as well be a solo climb for the lead climber. Protection is nearly non-existant, especially on the 2nd pitch. We did this route in 3 pitches, and on the 3rd pitch, we used a large flake about 30 feet into the chimney to place #4 & 5 friends. The rock is very soft though, and these cams may not have held if we had actually taken a fall. The solitude of this area along with the depth we progressed into this ch...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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