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Patio Wall
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Turtle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Scott Strong on Sep 1, 2011

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Description 

Climb up talus to start, crank past the initial hang, and climb the face above. In light of the fall potential, and a choice of holds, some worse than they appear, getting the high first bolt may be precarious? Climb to the 2nd bolt, where most tend right to features, before moving back left to the belay.


Protection 

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



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By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
Jan 3, 2012

I have received word that it's likely this route needs an upgrade. It's 5.7 rating in the guidebook is apparently a mistake and this route falls more in the hard 5.9 region.

By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Mar 30, 2012

well it was no mistake in the guidebook. Thats what my friend Jim and I rated it when we fist bolted it. I never thought it was 5.9. Sustained 5.7 maybe..or possibly 5.8. All others that day agreed 5.7 as well. Perhaps some holds have broken off?

By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
Dec 2, 2012

Ryan-

Definitely possible. Mark Pell and I were talking about it. I've always struggled on this route and felt it was really hard. Hell, I bailed on it today! =P