2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This very small, turtle-shaped crag, sits facing west, well below Canyon Block. It cannot be clearly seen from the parking pullout or driving down canyon. Follow a faint trail with cairns from the pullout that zig zags east up the hill (and not in the stream gully).
Here you will find a collection of moderate routes I developed for my daughter and her friends, who were all under age 10. There are about 10 micro-sized routes. The routes are mixed protection, a couple of bolts on the blank slab and trad gear. All bolts (4 total) were hand drilled manually.
I worked on this little crag for kids between September 2011 and Dec. 2012. I wanted to create a place for micro-adventures for children and their parents. I left some fixed ropes and nuts while working it that have been removed by someone else.
As a Boulder trad climber for over 35 years, I did not want excessive bolting to marr the aesthetics of this little area. So I have carefully thought about each and every bolt I hand drilled (4 total): three on the blank slab (for three different routes) and 1 at the top belay. I believe this spartan style creates a mixed-pro route that will be safe yet adventurous for young climbers and their parents.
Since I learned to climb in the 1970s, I planned the top anchor to be 1 bolt and 1 fixed hex in a good crack, equalized and with rap rings, but I now realize that wasn't the best idea since someone else removed the hex and rap rings. So, currently the safest way off is by walk off descent to the south until I get the top anchor safe for rappel/top rope.
Thanks for your patience with my efforts to create a bus accessible, family-style crag for youngsters.
Each of the routes here is much longer than the stated 40 feet. With the possible exception of the two easy routes farthest left (which I didn't do), each of the routes climbs about 65 to 75 feet from the ground to the one-bolt anchor (where you can add a hex, cam, or big stopper to back up the anchor bolt). We brought a 100-foot rope and had to walk off after every lead.
About six feet left of the start of Fiona is a vertical seam with two fixed KBs. This is directly beneath the bolt on Fiona. To climb directly from the undercut start, up to the first pin is at least 5.11. To start a few feet farther right, bouldering up, then moving left to clip the pin is maybe 5.9-. After bouldering up from the ground, placing a small wire or RP before continuing up and left to the second pin may be better than reaching down and to the left to clip the first pin. Is this the route Heads or Tails??
I enjoyed the routes, but I do not think this is a good place for a first lead if you're looking to gain experience placing pro. I came here hoping to get lots of practice placing pro but actually only found 2 or 3 opportunities to do so per route, excluding building anchors. The runouts did make it more exciting though! Also watch out for loose and potentially loose big blocks on top. Unknown Left Side at Happy Hour Crag would be a much better first lead in my opinion (but I am not child-sized, so I can't comment on how hard it is for kids).