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Bear Mountain
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Turtle Dome 
Ursa Minor 

Turtle Dome 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tatum, Burcham
Page Views: 527
Submitted By: mcarizona on Jan 11, 2010
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Description 

Turtle dome is left of the Bear mountain trailhead. The climb is in the southernmost cleft facing east. Traverse on the highest ledge past a few loose placements and a bolt. Trend left still on some horizontal features and top out at chains around the corner. Variation: At the bolt, go strait up the rotten scary crack (5.6, C1 for me)
Scramble unroped to the top then up one or two moves on rotten crystalized sandstone to the dragon statue.


Location 

Walk up the Bear Mountain trail past the twin spires (Ursa Major). When you have the tortoise head to your left head west, north of the huge wash. Go to the southernmost cleft to get to the base, a faint bolt can be seen about 30 feet out on the ledge.


Protection 

TCU up to #3



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