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> Mt Rubidoux
> Half Moon Area
> Turtle Dome
Turtle Dome Crack
V1 YDS 5 Font
Avg: 3.6 from 34
votes
Routes in Turtle Dome
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Gold V0 4 |
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Green V0- 4- |
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Problem A V0 4 |
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Problem B V1 5 |
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Problem B - Alternative Start V4 6B PG13 |
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Turtle Dome Crack V1 5 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,373 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Logan on Mar 18, 2008 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A Rubidoux semi-classic! Made famous for its inclusion in one of John Long's old instructional videos (an interesting sequence appeared in the film showing hand jamming technique, somehow shot from within or from the other side of the boulder). This problem is a must-do, and may also be tried as a difficult lieback (rated B1 in the Craig Fry guide). Done the standard way, tight hands lead to one or two perfect jams and then the crack becomes wider than you'd like far too quickly. Most people opt to lieback to the top once it gets wide, although fists and offwidth techniques will also get you there.
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