Turtle Dome Crack  V0

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Type:  Boulder, 15 feet Consensus:  V0-1 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Tyler Logan on Mar 18, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Paul Gleason on TD. Think I had the FA in '69 or '...

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Description 

A Rubidoux semi-classic! Made famous for its inclusion in one of John Long's old instructional videos (an interesting sequence appeared in the film showing hand jamming technique, somehow shot from within or from the other side of the boulder). This problem is a must-do, and may also be tried as a difficult lieback (rated B1 in the Craig Fry guide). Done the standard way, tight hands lead to one or two perfect jams and then the crack becomes wider than you'd like far too quickly. Most people opt to lieback to the top once it gets wide, although fists and offwidth techniques will also get you there.

Protection 

crash pad and spotters, or toprope with 4.5" cam

Photos of Turtle Dome Crack Slideshow

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The Woodson-like "Turtle Dome Crack"	Grant Kim 12-04-11	Grant Kim 12-04-11
Grant Kim 12-04-11	Grant Kim 12-04-11	Grant Kim 12-04-11
BETA PHOTO: Turtle Dome Crack Topo