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The Turret
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bartizan TR 
Lumby Ridge (pitch 3) T,TR 
Turret T,TR 
Turret Direct TR 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Oct 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Vince at the start.


A blank looking face above leads to feature that seem to come out of nowhere!


South face of the Turret. Follow the left crack until it disappears and follow the corner to the top.



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Josh Levin
Josh Levin

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By Doug Hemken
Dec 3, 2012

Gear to about 2 inches.

As usual, the crux is at the start. It protects well. Just beyond, there is an ancient piton left of the corner. From there, the climbing is fairly easy although the best holds will not be obvious. There are also 1 - 2 strategic horizontal seams for gear that are hard to spot from the ground.

Hard to set a nice TR on this one: sling the block or use a good horizontal 4 feet down. Either way, a TR kind of cheats the climber of the last satisfying move.
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