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Turret Rock and Environs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arputso Goes to Seattle S 
Blue Moon T,S 
Butterfly Flats T,S 
Caterpiller Corner T 
Chimney Cricket T 
Cosmic Ray S 
Jambrosia T 
Mo So Low S 
Mousetrap T,S 
No Name Odd Though T 
Pretzel Logic T 
Punch Out T 
Rabbit Tracks T 
Racing The Moon T,S 
So Low T,S 
Stealth Made Man S,TR 
Thunderhead Spire T 
Unknown T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Turret Rock and Environs  

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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kBobby on Dec 20, 2003
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Unknown Route right of Butterfly Flats. This route...


Like most of the stuff around Windy Point, Turret Rocks is a group of towers with climbing on all aspects (read: shade chasing). Moderate trad climbing, and 5.10 to 5.12 sport climbing prevails. For moderate trad, I suggest Jambrosia 5.8** on the tower by the same name, and Rabbit Tracks 5.6***. The latter is especially great for the new leader. I have only done one sport climb there, but they all look great.

Getting There 

Park at the Windy Point parking area and drop down below the Practice Wall. You can descend directly under the Practice Wall straight toward Turret Rock (which has an obvious "turret" on it) via a short 3rd class section; OR you can go farther west toward the overhanging boulders and drop down there without any 3rd class. When you get to the first big rocks (Bare Ass Rocks), there is a trail down between them toward Turret Rock. The easiest way down this gully is to go into the tight tunnel formed by the fallen slab. This tunnel is pretty tight: if you can do it easily with packs on, you are not in the right tunnel. On the way back, it is easier to go above the slab that forms the tunnel. After this, Turret Rock is directly in front of you. Note the block on top with two points of contact sporting chains! Jambrosia is directly to your right as you face Turret Rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turret Rock and Environs:
Rabbit Tracks   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jambrosia   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Caterpiller Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mousetrap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Arputso Goes to Seattle   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Stealth Made Man   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Racing The Moon   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Turret Rock and Environs

Featured Route For Turret Rock and Environs
Mousetrap 5.9 takes the thin crack roughly in the ...

Mousetrap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Turret Rock and Environs
The crux comes about 20ft. off the deck and is well protected via a bolt. This is a pretty stiff crux for a 5.9, but this is what squeezing the lemmon calls it. At the last "bulge" before the finishing slab one can go left and probably get pro or stick with the line and go for the 5.8R slab. Moving way right here is wild and fun! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Turret Rock and Environs
Comments on Turret Rock and Environs Add Comment
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By Almonzo
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 24, 2003
Rabbit Tracks is NOT a good climb for a beginning leader. The pro is not trivial, and the climb is one of the more intimidating 5.6 routes on Mt. Lemmon, if not anywhere. Good trad alternatives: Standard Route on Chimney Rock (5.7 crux has a bolt), Slippery When Wet (skip early 5.7+ move if you're looking for a very fun 5.6 route), or Monkey Business on Green Slabs.
By Vincent Greene
Sep 13, 2004
GPS reading between Bare Ass rocks and Turret rock, roughly at the end of the "tunnel".
By David Lammers
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 10, 2011
The route "The Cold Warrior" finishes on the turret block (NE part of Turret Rock). The chains are at the edge of the block. The block however is held up by 2 small pillars that are perpendicular to the chains. I was concerned being lowered because the physics (of tipping this block down on yourself and the belayer) are working against you. Probably not the best chain placement location.
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