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Like most of the stuff around Windy Point, Turret Rocks is a group of towers with climbing on all aspects (read: shade chasing). Moderate trad climbing, and 5.10 to 5.12 sport climbing prevails. For moderate trad, I suggest Jambrosia 5.8** on the tower by the same name, and Rabbit Tracks 5.6***. The latter is especially great for the new leader. I have only done one sport climb there, but they all look great.
Park at the Windy Point parking area and drop down below the Practice Wall. You can descend directly under the Practice Wall straight toward Turret Rock (which has an obvious "turret" on it) via a short 3rd class section; OR you can go farther west toward the overhanging boulders and drop down there without any 3rd class. When you get to the first big rocks (Bare Ass Rocks), there is a trail down between them toward Turret Rock. The easiest way down this gully is to go into the tight tunnel formed by the fallen slab. This tunnel is pretty tight: if you can do it easily with packs on, you are not in the right tunnel. On the way back, it is easier to go above the slab that forms the tunnel. After this, Turret Rock is directly in front of you. Note the block on top with two points of contact sporting chains! Jambrosia is directly to your right as you face Turret Rock.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turret Rock and Environs:
Rabbit Tracks 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Jambrosia 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Caterpiller Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Mousetrap 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Stealth Made Man 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Racing The Moon 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Featured Route For Turret Rock and Environs
Mousetrap 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Turret Rock and Environs
The crux comes about 20ft. off the deck and is well protected via a bolt. This is a pretty stiff crux for a 5.9, but this is what squeezing the lemmon calls it. At the last "bulge" before the finishing slab one can go left and probably get pro or stick with the line and go for the 5.8R slab. Moving way right here is wild and fun! ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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