Unknown Route right of Butterfly Flats. This route...
Like most of the stuff around Windy Point, Turret Rocks is a group of towers with climbing on all aspects (read: shade chasing). Moderate trad climbing, and 5.10 to 5.12 sport climbing prevails. For moderate trad, I suggest Jambrosia 5.8** on the tower by the same name, and Rabbit Tracks 5.6***. The latter is especially great for the new leader. I have only done one sport climb there, but they all look great.
Park at the Windy Point parking area and drop down below the Practice Wall. You can descend directly under the Practice Wall straight toward Turret Rock (which has an obvious "turret" on it) via a short 3rd class section; OR you can go farther west toward the overhanging boulders and drop down there without any 3rd class. When you get to the first big rocks (Bare Ass Rocks), there is a trail down between them toward Turret Rock. The easiest way down this gully is to go into the tight tunnel formed by the fallen slab. This tunnel is pretty tight: if you can do it easily with packs on, you are not in the right tunnel. On the way back, it is easier to go above the slab that forms the tunnel. After this, Turret Rock is directly in front of you. Note the block on top with two points of contact sporting chains! Jambrosia is directly to your right as you face Turret Rock.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Turret Rock and Environs
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turret Rock and Environs:
Jambrosia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Mousetrap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Turret Rock and Environs
Local Information for Turret Rock and Environs
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 24, 2003
Rabbit Tracks is NOT a good climb for a beginning leader. The pro is not trivial, and the climb is one of the more intimidating 5.6 routes on Mt. Lemmon, if not anywhere. Good trad alternatives: Standard Route on Chimney Rock (5.7 crux has a bolt), Slippery When Wet (skip early 5.7+ move if you're looking for a very fun 5.6 route), or Monkey Business on Green Slabs.
By Vincent Greene
Sep 13, 2004
GPS reading between Bare Ass rocks and Turret rock, roughly at the end of the "tunnel".
By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 10, 2011
The route "The Cold Warrior" finishes on the turret block (NE part of Turret Rock). The chains are at the edge of the block. The block however is held up by 2 small pillars that are perpendicular to the chains. I was concerned being lowered because the physics (of tipping this block down on yourself and the belayer) are working against you. Probably not the best chain placement location.