"Turret Dome is the largest rock in Elevenmile and offers an excellent selection of moderate slab routes. The south face has routes up to three pitches long with runouts in some places. The west face is shorter and offers steeper routes." Bob D'Antonio (taken from the Elevenmile Canyon guide book) This says it all. Outstanding multi-pitch rock with fewer crouds on it.
Turret Dome is located 4.3 miles up the canyon on the right. Park at Elevenmile picnic area, cross the bridge and head upstream. You can't miss it. For south and west face routes, approach high over a short slab to avoid a dead end into the creek. This will take you directly into the start of Schooldaze. From the summit, work north and downclimb to a saddle. Descend east to the picnic area.
16 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Turret Dome
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turret Dome:
Jaws 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, 4 pitches, 330'
Upper Lip 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Car Stud 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Upper Arch 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
White Stress 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
R Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Turret Dome
Sunshine Slab 5.0 2- 4 I MM 1c CO
: South Platte
: ... : Turret Dome
Follow the main Turret Dome directions. When you're at the base of the slab it is about as obvious as can be. Sprint upwards. Gear is a bother, you have to move to the far right or left side of the slab. I suggest the old fashioned solo.At the start of the bathtubs (you'll recognize them) move right into the gully & finish. If you ascend the bathtub area you'll encounter harder climbing than 5.0, but there are a couple ways to get off keeping it 5.4 (see finish for Schooldaze or traverse ri...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For Turret Dome
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Upper Arch area. Continue past Guide's Route, Thro...
BETA PHOTO: Turret Dome.
Brenda tops out on Turret Dome with the Platte Riv...
Brenda raps off the big pine tree on the back of t...
Hangin' in a bathtub waiting to do the last pitch ...
|By Sean O'Dell|
Mar 6, 2002
"Decend east into picnic area" doesn't quite do justice to the decent from the summit. The downclimb off the back of this rock is kind of a pain (5.4-ish in spots), so when doing a route that summits Turret Dome (such as the Guide's Route), make sure to keep the ol' climbing shoes on for the downclimb and allow appropriate extra time.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 28, 2002
Does anybody know anything about the bolted lines on Turret Dome? They looked like they were put up fairly recently. Any info. would be much appreciated.
|By Larry Shaw|
Jul 28, 2005
They are in the database as [Unknown 1, Unknown 2,] and [Sloppy Shoes].
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 11, 2006
If the descent is wet, like it was for us today, you can go to a large tree on the North side of the dome (on your right facing Turret from the road). A 60 meter rope will barely get you all the way down past two ledges. The second ledge has a small tree to rap off if all you have is a 50 meter or you just want to be sure. If you do the full rap, angle the rope to the left to hit a mossy ledge. Going straight down won't work.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
Descent Info: As of Sept 2010, there were two good slings on the large pine tree at the back and right side of the dome summit. I added a rappel ring to save wear and tear on the slings. It's a fun, easy rappel down two ledges. Much more enjoyable for me than downclimbing. It gets you down to where it's just an easy hike down the saddle. I hope everyone will leave the slings & rap ring in place for future climbers to descend on. Thanks!
|By Chip Loomis|
Aug 15, 2011
I wanted to add a little clarity about the sport routes along the West Face of Turret Dome. However, there is a chance that this information may just muddy the water since it is only information that I gleamed from reading the other posts. After climbing there this weekend, we found that the directions to some of the older sport routes did not match since newer sport routes have been added. We found a total of 9 sport routes along the West Face and I will list them from Left to Right even though you will likely reach them the opposite way, right to left (sorry).
From L to R
1. Most Toppest: Farthest left and toppest, passed Upper Arch.
The next three routes are under the Upper Arch.
2. Junior Juiles Doinks a Digit.
4. Inner Space Arch.
The next routes are below 'The Tunnel', a couple hundred feet below Upper Arch. Specifically there are two that start on the same face just below Guide's Route.
5. Velvet Habel: I think, regardless it is a 50 foot 5.7 with 5-6 bolts. About 20 feet below the start of Guide's Route.
6. Unknown 5.7: Another short route with 5-6 bolts 20 feet below Velvet Habel.
The next three are very close to each other.
7. The Mexicanist.
8. Car Stud.
9. Sloppy Shoes: mixed.
A couple hundred feet below these routes are Schooldaze and Jaws.
|By Kenny P|
From: Woodland Park
Aug 25, 2013
As of August 2013, the route list for a portion of Turret is missing from this site; refer to the "Eleven Miles to Freedom" guidebook by Schmitt which can clear any confusion.
There are many great routes in the mid-5.10 range to make a great day's outing worth the 15min "approach"!
Moderate Routes not to be missed include:
"Smoke Pot... Check Knot", 5.10b**** (Sport).
"Fashionably uninvited", 5.10c*** (Trad).
"Canine Rescue", 5.10a**** (Sport).
"Aid Route", 5.10a** (Trad).
"Junior Jules Doinks a Digit", 5.10b*** (Sport).