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Turnkorner Direct 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ray Jardine, George Hurley, Chris Walker, 1969 FFA: Scott Woodruf, Mike Gilbert, Dan Hare, 1974
Season: year-round, summer is best
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: jason seaver on Jul 10, 2010

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Description 

If you're looking for a harder, more dangerous way to start Turnkorner, this is a good option. The cool, varied climbing is interrupted infrequently by widely spaced and/or marginal gear placements. You can finish up the last few leads of Laura Scudders, instead of Turnkorner, for some additional funk/fear.

The upper 3 pitches of Turnkorner get the 10; the Turnkorner Direct pitches get the 5.9 R.

The real climbing starts off the top of the smaller of the two giant flakes leaning against the base of the wall. Instead of climbing the easy left side of the flake though, I would reccomend soloing the front face of the flake. This might serve to calibrate your head for what's to come.

From the top of the flake, place a couple small cams in the horizontals in the roof, and devise a way to pull onto the wall. On May 29, 2010 we fixed a blue TCU here (not on purpose). Once established above the roof, angle left to a right-facing corner system. You could belay in this corner somewhere, or continue on (recommended). This is where our experiences on the route diverge from the description in the Gillett guidebook. The book seems to describe following the corner as it arches out right, after a rightward jog, but I ended up pulling out left after the jog into another right-facing corner crack. This felt pretty hard. I then followed this corner up to a horizontal and past it to the right to gain a nice ledge. Belay here or keep going if you belayed in the corner below. Angle up and right to the blocky second belay on Turnkorner.

Do the last 3 pitches of Turnkorner.


Location 

This route is between Turnkorner and Mr. President, starting from the top of the smaller of two giant flakes leaning against the base of the wall. After two independent pitches, it joins Turnkorner at its second belay.


Protection 

Stanadard rack up to #4 Camalot.



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