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 ADVANCED
Midway Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dauntless S 
Diagonal Left T 
Diagonal Right T 
Erin Arete S 
Flight Deck T 
Goony Dunes S 
Self Abuse T 
Senro No Ejjin S 
Turning Point  S 
Urchins Ate the Coral S 
Wish it Was a Palm Tree S 

Turning Point  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Duane Lyons
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Feb 6, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The clean path between the lichen is Turning Point...

Description 

There are three crux areas on this slab/face climb. The first is the initial move before the first bolt. From this crimpy mantle you traverse right and up to the bolt. The second is between bolts two and three, and the third consists of fairly sustained climbing between the last four bolts of the climb. Good smearing, crimping, and maybe a hand-foot match or two will see you through. Much like any slab climb, it looks a lot easier from the ground.

Location 

Left and around the corner from Self Abuse, the start is a chalked mantle near a sandy base located by a medium-sized boulder and tree. Traversing even further right from the same start will put you on the next bolt line, Gooney Dunes 5.9/10a.

Protection 

8 bolts and a two bolt anchor.


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By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The cuxiest crux for me is the last one in the description. Great lead!
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