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Stately Pleasure Dome
Routes Sorted
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Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Death Crack T 
Dixie Peach T 
Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
Great White Book T 
Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
West Country T 

Turning Japanese 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Don Reid & Alan Bartlett, 6/81
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: TheIceManCometh on Dec 13, 2011

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Description 

1st pitch: follow left leaning flake/ramp until it ensd and then go up face to small roof. Climb past roof and a couple bolts (10a) to ledge on left.

About 75' ft if memory serves.

2nd pitch. Ideally belay on left side of ledge. Climb corner and hand traverse right under roof and pull past roof into small right facing corner. Transition from corner to thin face past a number of bolts to belay on long, narrow ledge. 10d crux is above the corner on first few bolts. It was a dyno for me.

About 90' ft, I think.

3rd pitch. Up corner/roof system. Easy 5th to top of dome.

Location 

This climb is on the far right side of Stately Pleasure Dome (east side, by the road). The approach isn't long, but you do have to angle up right along the face. It's just left of Shy Tuna and Babe Roof.

Protection 

Mostly single set of cams to 2" and a bunch of draws. Good pro, especially at cruxes.


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