Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Stately Pleasure Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Angel 
Death Crack 
Dixie Peach 
Great White Book 
Hermaphrodite Flake 
Shadow Nose 
South Crack 
Sweet Nothings 
Table of Contents 
Turning Japanese 
West Country 

Turning Japanese 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Don Reid & Alan Bartlett, 6/81
Page Views: 151
Submitted By: TheIceManCometh on Dec 13, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


1st pitch: follow left leaning flake/ramp until it ensd and then go up face to small roof. Climb past roof and a couple bolts (10a) to ledge on left.

About 75' ft if memory serves.

2nd pitch. Ideally belay on left side of ledge. Climb corner and hand traverse right under roof and pull past roof into small right facing corner. Transition from corner to thin face past a number of bolts to belay on long, narrow ledge. 10d crux is above the corner on first few bolts. It was a dyno for me.

About 90' ft, I think.

3rd pitch. Up corner/roof system. Easy 5th to top of dome.


This climb is on the far right side of Stately Pleasure Dome (east side, by the road). The approach isn't long, but you do have to angle up right along the face. It's just left of Shy Tuna and Babe Roof.


Mostly single set of cams to 2" and a bunch of draws. Good pro, especially at cruxes.

Comments on Turning Japanese Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -