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Turning bolted lines into trad lines, who does that?
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By Crux Crush
Apr 24, 2013
rock love

Caroline Ciavaldini, that's who.

cruxcrush.com/2013/04/23/caroline-ciavaldini-turns-5-13c-bol>>>


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By Ronin
From Smoke Hole Canyon
Apr 24, 2013
Almost Heaven nothing... this IS Heaven.  Climbing parallel to my young friend Andreas on a perfect fall day.

I have, on a couple of my own early efforts.


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By redlude97
Apr 24, 2013

Maybe the translation is poor, but is working a project on bolts and getting it dialed and then sending it on gear really trad?


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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Apr 24, 2013
don't throw rocks

When you're high above your own pro it is.


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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Apr 24, 2013
Just a teaser

Ah yes. The "Green" point.


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By redlude97
Apr 24, 2013

kevin deweese wrote:
When you're high above your own pro it is.

Hahaha should we really start another what is really trad discussion?


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By Ian Stewart
Apr 25, 2013

redlude97 wrote:
Maybe the translation is poor, but is working a project on bolts and getting it dialed and then sending it on gear really trad?


Of course it's trad, it's just not as impressive as if she'd grabbed the rack from the start.


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By CJC
Apr 25, 2013

Crux Crush wrote:
Turning bolted lines into trad lines, who does that? Caroline Ciavaldini, that's who.


Turning trad lines into bolted lines, who does that?

The French, that's who.


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By redlude97
Apr 25, 2013

Ian Stewart wrote:
Of course it's trad, it's just not as impressive as if she'd grabbed the rack from the start.

I'm sure she lowered to the ground and pulled the rope after every fall on her project.


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By Eric Engberg
May 1, 2013

Ken Nichols


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By Jon H
From Boulder
May 1, 2013
At the matching crux

CJC wrote:
The French, that's who.


How the tables have turned. They used to turn trad routes into bolted routes.


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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From Alabama
Jul 20, 2013
Starting the second section of Live to climb another day

Can you say "retro"


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Jul 20, 2013

BITD when one freed an aid line one would often rename it, ala Astroman. So if one does a bolted line sans bolts do they get to rename it?

FWIW I have probably done a dozen routes sans bolts while placing trad gear.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Jul 21, 2013

Monty wrote:
Ah yes. The "Green" point.

I always thought that was a silly and misused term. In modern culture the word "green" is used to describe an object or practice that is economically friendly and aims to minimize adverse impact on the ecosystem. Climbing a sport route on gear, by no stretch of the imagination, accomplishes a reduced impact on the environment. I suspect the term was incorrectly coined by climbing magazine editors in an effort to generate increased discussion.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Jul 21, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

20 kN wrote:
I always thought that was a silly and misused term. In modern culture the word "green" is used to describe an object or practice that is economically friendly and aims to minimize adverse impact on the ecosystem. Climbing a sport route on gear, by no stretch of the imagination, accomplishes a reduced impact on the environment. I suspect the term was incorrectly coined by climbing magazine editors in an effort to generate increased discussion.


Word.

Climbing bolted routes on gear is cool, and great style (not as great of style as a ground up fa, but still pretty rad). But it is not traditional, and has nothing to do with low-impact environmental consciousness. I wish that stupid "greenpoint" term would just die.


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By Ian Cavanaugh
Jul 21, 2013

The term "green" point is incorrectly used and has been since Climbing or whoever published it first. For a proper "green" point, one must first smoke a fat bowl and then send the route.


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By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
Jul 21, 2013
Tom-onator

Ian Cavanaugh wrote:
For a proper "green" point, one must first smoke a fat bowl and then send the route.

~ While wearing hemp clothing, using a hemp cord, thumping Bob Marley's "Legalize It" on the crag blaster, and ONLY while the belayer chows on double-stuff Oreo's.
Oh, and said stoners pushed their Prius to the cliffs while wearing recycled flip flops.
That would definitely be a Greenpoint.


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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Jul 21, 2013

In Sedona we have a few lines with bolts near thin cracks/seams. One of these is a stellar mixed route that was lead only with gear, skipping bolts, with no falls. The leader had previously climbed it with the bolts.

Another good climber tried to onsight the crux pitch with gear only, fell and ripped seveal pieces falling beyond his belayer headfirst. He was fine, the rock was damaged. His response: "After this experience, I understand why the bolts were placed. The rock is quite soft, and even equalized placements blow out on finger-sized pieces. For the sake of preserving this beautiful route for people to climb for decades, I think leading it on gear is perhaps an irresponsible choice. I will be returning to redpoint the pitch, but will be clipping the bolts next time. It isn't worth marring the route, especially for onsight attempts, which have a good chance to leading to more falls.


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By CJC
Jul 21, 2013

Peter Tosh wrote 'Legalize It'


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By Ed Wright
Jul 21, 2013
Magic Ed

Sonny Trotter

I think what Caroline did would be considered a headpoint.


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By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
Jul 21, 2013
Tom-onator

CJC wrote:
Peter Tosh wrote 'Legalize It'

Correct.
I meant Bob Marley's October 1975 National Stadium, Kingston Jamaica Live version with Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer.
It's a full 7 min. long song (2mins more hang time than Tosh's standard cut).
:-p


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By Aaron L.
Jul 21, 2013
Hiking in the Adirondacks

I think it's pretty inspirational when bolts are skipped and the route is done in the traditional manner. Here is one of my favorites:

Didier Berthod on "Greenspit"


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