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Turning bolted lines into trad lines, who does that?
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Apr 24, 2013
rock love
Caroline Ciavaldini, that's who.

cruxcrush.com/2013/04/23/carol...
Crux Crush
Joined Mar 23, 2013
11 points
Apr 24, 2013
Almost Heaven nothing... this IS Heaven.  Climbing...
I have, on a couple of my own early efforts. Ronin
From Smoke Hole Canyon
Joined Apr 28, 2008
405 points
Apr 24, 2013
Maybe the translation is poor, but is working a project on bolts and getting it dialed and then sending it on gear really trad? redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
8 points
Apr 24, 2013
Birds and Beards
When you're high above your own pro it is. kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Joined Jan 14, 2007
264 points
Apr 24, 2013
Just a teaser
Ah yes. The "Green" point. Monty
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,039 points
Apr 24, 2013
kevin deweese wrote:
When you're high above your own pro it is.

Hahaha should we really start another what is really trad discussion?
redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
8 points
Apr 25, 2013
redlude97 wrote:
Maybe the translation is poor, but is working a project on bolts and getting it dialed and then sending it on gear really trad?


Of course it's trad, it's just not as impressive as if she'd grabbed the rack from the start.
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Apr 25, 2013
Mashers Tower
Crux Crush wrote:
Turning bolted lines into trad lines, who does that? Caroline Ciavaldini, that's who.


Turning trad lines into bolted lines, who does that?

The French, that's who.
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Apr 25, 2013
Ian Stewart wrote:
Of course it's trad, it's just not as impressive as if she'd grabbed the rack from the start.

I'm sure she lowered to the ground and pulled the rope after every fall on her project.
redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
8 points
May 1, 2013
Ken Nichols Eric Engberg
Joined Apr 28, 2009
2 points
May 1, 2013
At the matching crux
CJC wrote:
The French, that's who.


How the tables have turned. They used to turn trad routes into bolted routes.
Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
98 points
Administrator
Jul 20, 2013
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Can you say "retro" Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
Jul 20, 2013
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
BITD when one freed an aid line one would often rename it, ala Astroman. So if one does a bolted line sans bolts do they get to rename it?

FWIW I have probably done a dozen routes sans bolts while placing trad gear.
Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,152 points
Administrator
Jul 21, 2013
Monty wrote:
Ah yes. The "Green" point.

I always thought that was a silly and misused term. In modern culture the word "green" is used to describe an object or practice that is economically friendly and aims to minimize adverse impact on the ecosystem. Climbing a sport route on gear, by no stretch of the imagination, accomplishes a reduced impact on the environment. I suspect the term was incorrectly coined by climbing magazine editors in an effort to generate increased discussion.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Jul 21, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
20 kN wrote:
I always thought that was a silly and misused term. In modern culture the word "green" is used to describe an object or practice that is economically friendly and aims to minimize adverse impact on the ecosystem. Climbing a sport route on gear, by no stretch of the imagination, accomplishes a reduced impact on the environment. I suspect the term was incorrectly coined by climbing magazine editors in an effort to generate increased discussion.


Word.

Climbing bolted routes on gear is cool, and great style (not as great of style as a ground up fa, but still pretty rad). But it is not traditional, and has nothing to do with low-impact environmental consciousness. I wish that stupid "greenpoint" term would just die.
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,369 points
Jul 21, 2013
The term "green" point is incorrectly used and has been since Climbing or whoever published it first. For a proper "green" point, one must first smoke a fat bowl and then send the route. Ian Cavanaugh
Joined Sep 6, 2010
406 points
Jul 21, 2013
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Ian Cavanaugh wrote:
For a proper "green" point, one must first smoke a fat bowl and then send the route.

~ While wearing hemp clothing, using a hemp cord, thumping Bob Marley's "Legalize It" on the crag blaster, and ONLY while the belayer chows on double-stuff Oreo's.
Oh, and said stoners pushed their Prius to the cliffs while wearing recycled flip flops.
That would definitely be a Greenpoint.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Jul 21, 2013
In Sedona we have a few lines with bolts near thin cracks/seams. One of these is a stellar mixed route that was lead only with gear, skipping bolts, with no falls. The leader had previously climbed it with the bolts.

Another good climber tried to onsight the crux pitch with gear only, fell and ripped seveal pieces falling beyond his belayer headfirst. He was fine, the rock was damaged. His response: "After this experience, I understand why the bolts were placed. The rock is quite soft, and even equalized placements blow out on finger-sized pieces. For the sake of preserving this beautiful route for people to climb for decades, I think leading it on gear is perhaps an irresponsible choice. I will be returning to redpoint the pitch, but will be clipping the bolts next time. It isn't worth marring the route, especially for onsight attempts, which have a good chance to leading to more falls.
manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Joined Jan 27, 2006
2,693 points
Jul 21, 2013
Mashers Tower
Peter Tosh wrote 'Legalize It' Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Jul 21, 2013
Magic Ed
Sonny Trotter

I think what Caroline did would be considered a headpoint.
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Jul 21, 2013
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
CJC wrote:
Peter Tosh wrote 'Legalize It'

Correct.
I meant Bob Marley's October 1975 National Stadium, Kingston Jamaica Live version with Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer.
It's a full 7 min. long song (2mins more hang time than Tosh's standard cut).
:-p
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Jul 21, 2013
Hiking in the Adirondacks
I think it's pretty inspirational when bolts are skipped and the route is done in the traditional manner. Here is one of my favorites:

Didier Berthod on "Greenspit"
Aaron L.
Joined Feb 25, 2010
52 points


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