L to R R to L Alpha
Locate this route by scrambling up the Fender gully, easy 5th class, to a large ledge just down and to climber's right of Femp's belay ledge. Look for 3 bolts that lead to a flared crack begining a little past halfway up the pitch. Run it out to the first bolt, approximately 15 feet of 5.9, which then protects a difficult section leading to bolt #2 and then head slightly left to a horn which takes a sling and a medium stopper. Mantle up on the horn, move right to clip bolt #3, then pull the crux move of the route to get situated in the crack and begin searching for a couple of difficult to place RPs. A couple more difficult moves in the crack get you to better gear and onto a nice belay ledge right underneath the nice 5.8 handcrack on Endless Crack's third pitch.
Bring a set of TCUs or equivalent, set of stoppers and RPs, quickdraws, several runners, and a couple of larger cams for the belay (#2, #3 Camalot).