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Locate this route by scrambling up the Fender gully, easy 5th class, to a large ledge just down and to climber's right of Femp's
belay ledge. Look for 3 bolts that lead to a flared crack begining a little past halfway up the pitch. Run it out to the first bolt, approximately 15 feet of 5.9, which then protects a difficult section leading to bolt #2 and then head slightly left to a horn which takes a sling and a medium stopper. Mantle up on the horn, move right to clip bolt #3, then pull the crux move of the route to get situated in the crack and begin searching for a couple of difficult to place RPs. A couple more difficult moves in the crack get you to better gear and onto a nice belay ledge right underneath the nice 5.8 handcrack on Endless Crack's
Choose one of several different existing exits or rap back to the start of the route from a tree with slings just up and left of the ledge.
Note: the "s" rating refers to the runout getting to the first bolt, as a fall would land you right on the belay ledge. The bolt was intentionally placed in this location because there is a natural clipping stance, we wanted to keep the bolt count low and we thought anyone unable to commit to this part of the route would have a really hard time further up the climb.
Bring a set of TCUs or equivalent, set of stoppers and RPs, quickdraws, several runners, and a couple of larger cams for the belay (#2, #3 Camalot).
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Jun 12, 2005
Even though this route was named after a Bob [Segar] song, I'd still recommend it. Nice work, boys!
By comic clown
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c