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Turmoil 

Turmoil 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Mike Smith, 1996
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Apr 26, 2006
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  • Description 

    This route is the furthest bolted line to the right. The moves become progessively more difficult as you follow a seam before hitting a distinct crux above the 4th bolt. My buddy broke off about an 8" chunk inside the seam at the crux, but it did not seem to affect the grade at all. The hold was used as a bump to hit a better edge.


    Protection 

    7 quickdraws for 5 bolts plus the anchor.



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    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Oct 3, 2009

    I thought this was an interesting climb. There is still some lichen, but otherwise the route seems pretty clean. There are a lot of scars where rock has flaked off, but hopefully the remaining holds are stable. There is a scar right between the last two bolts, making me wonder if there was a crimper there at one time. The crux here seemed pretty thin. I went up to the right to reach a knob, but there was nothing for my feet except licheny smears while I made the last clip. It's definitely easier than 5.12 though.