Turkish Bride 5.10+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 220 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Jake Dayley, Kole Decou |
| Season: | North facing |
| Submitted By: | markguycan on Jan 25, 2008 |
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following on the second ascent on pitch 3.
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just do it! Same start as the N face route for the first pitch(dirty). Then traverse left 5.8 (exposed!) Then splitter crack corner/flake 5.10 (steep!)to below a roof with OW through it. Traverse right below roof on nice edges (exposed!)to hand and fist crack (enduro fists!)5.10 then left past slab and short hand crack to summit!
Protection doubles to #4, #3.5 useful
BETA PHOTO: final pitch: enduro fists in a west facing corner.
| BETA PHOTO: Turkish Bride Topo
| Tavis leading the tight hands of the third pitch. ...
| Turkish Delight, Sedona, AZ. Photo by D. Berry
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| Comments on Turkish Bride |
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By Kole DeCou From: Flagstaff, AZ May 22, 2008 rating: 5.10 PG13
| This is an excellent and sustained all natural route. It was me and Jake's last route together in Sedona before I went to Turkey and got married and Jake moved out of town. The route climbs beautiful clean crack systems connected by airy traverses, with some grunting on the first pitch to warm you up. I don't think the route is R-rated overall. There is a 5.6 R step across on the first pitch, and the limestone traverse is spooky but it's easy and I'm pretty sure it would protect if you took the time to find the gear. From the summit you can now rap off with 1 rope down the Windows Route. |
By Jake Dayley Nov 12, 2008 rating: 5.10+ PG13
| Don't let the R rating given on this site scare you off. The only part that could be considered "R" is an unprotected 5.6 move at the beginning of the first pitch. The second pitch is spicy but it's 5.9 jugs so just punch it to the ledge. If you really wanted to protect it you could probably get some nuts in the limestone. We should have called the last pitch 10+. The moves up into the OW are sandbagged at 5.10 but they protect fine. This route is just as good if not better than The Window Route. |
By Mike From: Phoenix Jun 30, 2009 rating: 5.10
| The first 2 pitches are so-so, but the last 2 pitches are superb. |
By Kole DeCou From: Flagstaff, AZ Mar 28, 2013 rating: 5.10 PG13
| Bu rotaya Turk Gelini taktik cunku rotayi actiktan iki uc hafta sonra bir Turk kadinla evlendim. Guzel bir rota, guzel bir kadin icin. Belki bir gun kizimiz da tirmanacak onu, ama elleri cok kucuk 3.5 numarali bir catlak icin. Niye 'R' taktilar yeni kitabinda acaba? Olsun. Bu rota 'Windows Route' gibi orozpu olmasin. |
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