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Turkey Tail
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Turkey's Delight 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,868
Submitted By: Tyler Jones on Feb 4, 2001
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At the nice upper crack.

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Description 

The route starts off great. The first pitch would get two stars. There's a small boulder sticking out at the top of the first pitch with slings around it (bring your own double sling). Best advise is to rap from here. Second and third pitch continue up and to the right of the belay. The descent off the back is really odd, especially if you haven't been up top of Turkey Tail before. It's best done by going to the right from the top and finding spots to hop down between rocks. -Tyler Jones


Protection 

Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.



Photos of Turkey's Delight Slideshow Add Photo
CM getting some Turkey.
CM getting some Turkey.
Looking up at the Dark Meat variation.
Looking up at the Dark Meat variation.
Nathan Meader leads Turkey's Delight.
Nathan Meader leads Turkey's Delight.
Nate Meader working up the Dark Meat variation to Turkey's Delight.
Nate Meader working up the Dark Meat variation to ...
Nathan Meader leading Turkeys Delight.
Nathan Meader leading Turkeys Delight.
Low on this delightful route.
Low on this delightful route.
Nate a little higher up Turkey's Delight.
Nate a little higher up Turkey's Delight.
My friend leading Turkey's Delight, the chimney to the left looks really nice and goes at 5.8 supposedly.  The first pitch of Turkey's Delight didn't look like fun to me, and I didn't even bother, he lowered down. As you can see, some long runners would help at the top there, and be careful if you decide to TR this from the left as your rope can get stuck in a crack (as learned by another member in our group that day).
My friend leading Turkey's Delight, the chimney to...
Nathan Meader Turkey's Delight.
Nathan Meader Turkey's Delight.
Nate pulls out around the roof on the Dark Meat variation of Turkey's Delight.
Nate pulls out around the roof on the Dark Meat va...
Nathan Meader, Turkey's Delight.
Nathan Meader, Turkey's Delight.
Looking back down the chimney on the Dark Meat Variation.
Looking back down the chimney on the Dark Meat Var...
Nathan Meader leading the Dark Meat variation of Turkey's Delight as one pitch to the top.
Nathan Meader leading the Dark Meat variation of T...
Delight!
Delight!
Nate Meader linking the Dark Meat variation with Turkey's Delight as one long pitch to the top.
Nate Meader linking the Dark Meat variation with T...
1st belay.
1st belay.
Comments on Turkey's Delight Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Sep 4, 2001

If you move left to a small alcove at the top of the first pitch, you will find two bolts with some funky (yet solid) wire contraption and a couple of slings. Rap straight down the face past the overhang from here. Also, you can do an interesting variation on the last 20 feet by taking a vertical finger crack on the left wall of the dihedral directly to the alcove. Felt 9+ to me, but I was on TR.

By Scott Thompson
Nov 25, 2001

Great route! Awesome hand jams with some funky moves along the way. To find this climb from the base of the Perch, boulder hop around to the south face of the obvious Turkey Tail formation. You can find a faint trail once out of all the boulders. Look for a right facing dihedral with double cracks. The crack on the left is wider and is a short squeeze chimney at the bottom. Also, look for a bolted line up a beautiful 5.hard arete which finishes into a crack. Turkey's Delight is about 30 feet to the left of the arete. Enjoy!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 31, 2003

An adventurous variation second pitch climbs straight above the belay at 5.8. This is called the Dark Meat variation, i think. Classic chimney technique, with protectable crack in the back. Pull over the roof (take care not to run the rope in the crack, would get stuck?)on hand jams and up the OW (crux). A #4-4.5 Camalot would have been nice for this bit. Belay at a sloping ramp. Squirt through a hole/chimney to descend the backside. This way sucked, as it required some downclimbing in the snow.

By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I belayed P1 at an unusual cave-like hole a little to the right of the crack proper, and a fair distance above and R of the "anchor". From there I spiraled L through a "slot canyon-ish" affair then back directly above the belay, past a moderately difficult lie-back to an easy slab/jam fest to just below the top. Scrambled up about another 20 feet to top out. Yes, this created a fair amount of rope drag toward the top, but the climbing was easy and straightforward.

For the descent, the guide we used showed an arrow pointing to the West and "Chimney". We found the chimney, but it appeared a bit harder than we liked, and we didn't see any apparent descent from the bottom of it, so we set up two raps off the back (North) side. If you're on top and in the mood for a treasure hunt there's some booty (stopper, hex, some biners) up there. Someone please clean up my mess! Let me know if you find it...

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Oct 10, 2009

Hi Jerry, I found your rappel anchor in Nov 2008 and cleaned it up. The descent from the top is kind of a hairy scramble.