|Chilly Willy Wall
BETA PHOTO: Turkey Sandwich (5.8), Chilly Willy Wall, Las Conc...
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Described in Jackson's guide book as "seldom climbed", and there's probably a good reason for that. From the top of the boulder pile, delicately climb the face and/or arete to the roof. A fist- to arm-bar sized crack leads around the right side of the roof. Follow more secure, lower-angled fist and hand cracks to the top anchors, just past an easy bulge.
Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84 -- they call it 5.8), Beverly (2006:58 -- called it 5.8-), and Jackson (2006:211 -- called it 5.8). None of these guides had previously presented a route topo, though.
This starts on the right side of the boulder pile, about 30 feet right of the Tasty Freeze bolts. Another new bolted line lies to the 30 feet (?) right of the start.
Trad rack to #4 Camalot (#4 is pretty essential), also including a thin-finger sized cam.
Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and one bolt with a chain). One can either rappel or walk off (a class 3 scramble-off, actually). Once you know the anchor, this can be set as a top rope by walking up the backside.
Although it's not indicated as such in any of the books, I added an R rating, due to what I felt was the sketchy-ness of the face just off the top of the boulder pile. One has to make a pretty unprotected move to gain a stance on the face where you can reach a thin-finger cam placement in a pod under a semi-detached flake, which appears pretty solid (but I swear, the flake made a creaking noise as I climbed past the cam!). That's basically all the meaningful pro you get until you reach the roof crack, so there's a possibility of landing on the boulder pile, or the ground below, if you peel off the face (so maybe even ~X rated?).
|By J tot|
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 19, 2010
The climb is fun but the first viable place for pro is in the massive flake... past what I thought was the crux.
|By Arthur Sullivan|
Jun 21, 2010
I realize its probably not climbers but the base of this climb has developed a serious toilet paper problem over the past year. Really unfortunate because I enjoy climbing at this wall when the front walls are crowded on summer days.