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This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.
When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campgound, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.
24 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turkey Rock:
Nightime Madness 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad
Stewart's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 4 pitches
The Eastern Front 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Glen's Pancake 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
The Fiend 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Jump Start 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Gobbler's Grunt 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Southern Comfort 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Turkey Shoot 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Brain Cramps 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Straw Turkey 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches
Satyr's Asshole 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad
Vanishing Point 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Finger Lickin' Good 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Great White Crime 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
In Style, Out of Fashion 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c X Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Turkey Rock
Straw Turkey 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CO : South Platte : ... : Turkey Rock
This climb is on Turkey Rock. P1. The first pitch offers excellent moves up disjointed thin cracks with great moves and superb protection. The start begins 10-15 feet right of a huge pine tree, at the base of the climb there is a good lounging rock. Begin the climb by face climbing up the incipient cracks, past a great mantle, and up to two steep small dihedrals. After the dihedrals, find a good ledge for the belay (this is a long pitch). P2. For the second pitch continue up the chimney/crack s...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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