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Turkey Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Cramps 
Dash and Thrangle 
Direct Hit 
Eastern Front, The 
Fiend, The 
Finger Lickin' Good 
Glen's Pancake 
Gobbler's Grunt 
Great White Crime 
In Style, Out of Fashion 
Jump Start 
Nightime Madness 
Rastafarian 
Route 902 
Satyr's Asshole 
Second Coming 
Southern Comfort 
Stewart's Crack 
Straw Turkey 
Tofonareeker 
Tryptophane 
Turkey Shoot 
Vanishing Point 
Wild Fire 

Turkey Rock 


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Location: 39.11374, -105.23904 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 92,955
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Turkey Rock!

Description 

This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.


Getting There 

When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campgound, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',9],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turkey Rock:
Nightime Madness   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad   
Glen's Pancake   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Stewart's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   
Second Coming   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
The Eastern Front   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Jump Start   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Gobbler's Grunt   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
The Fiend   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Turkey Shoot   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Southern Comfort   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Brain Cramps   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Direct Hit   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 75'   
Straw Turkey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Satyr's Asshole   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad   
Vanishing Point   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Finger Lickin' Good   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Great White Crime   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
In Style, Out of Fashion   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c X     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tryptophane   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Turkey Rock

Featured Route For Turkey Rock
Tyler Jones approaching the crux of the route.

Vanishing Point 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  CO : South Platte : ... : Turkey Rock
This is an awesome one pitch climb. It starts out kinda wide (fists), and then goes to a really nice finger crack over a bulge, to bolts. Excellent finger jams, and is located in the middle of the rock formation....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Turkey Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Pike's Peak from Turkey Rock.
Pike's Peak from Turkey Rock.
Turkey Rock.
Turkey Rock.
Comments on Turkey Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2013
By Darin Lang
Jul 24, 2001

An alternate, and IMO easier, approach is to continue on FR 360 for approximately 1 mile past the campground sign. Take the first left after you get to the top of the hill (there used to be a tree marked with a red "dot" here), and follow that road until you reach one of two or three indistinct parking areas. Hike straight up and slightly right, aiming for the obvious low point of the ridge, and you will soon find yourself directly above Turkey Perch.

By Dan McNamara
Jul 11, 2002



It is my understanding that all of the Pike national forest is closed due to the Hayman fire. this includes the Turkey rocks area. bummer. The south platte areas near Pine are all private land so they are still open.



By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Jul 12, 2002

Thanks a million dan. I'm glad I didn't head up there today. j monahan

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2002

I don't get this way much but might go over the weekend. Is it still closed?

By Luc Gruenther
Apr 22, 2003

I just talked to Pete Gallager at the Forest Service yesterday (April 22, 2003) and he said that there will most likely be a limited reopening of the Hayman burn areas on April 28th, 2003. Sheep's Nose will probably be accessible as normal, but climbers may only be able to access Turkey by foot from Stump Ranch...a long hike.

He was sure to emphasize that the decision is a "fluid" one, so don't count on anything for sure. Check www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/ for press releases, especially as we approach the April 28th date.

By Brian Janezich
May 19, 2003

The perch is a good area for intermediate climbers like myself. Make sure and do Stephenwolf which is a classic 5.9 and a bit of a grunt in several places. Make sure and bring some tape gloves too. Awsome area, free camping, friendly climbers, bomber granite and not crowded during the week.

By Jeff Buhl
May 21, 2003

So are Turkey Rocks open now (as of 5-21-03)? I checked the gov't site above but it was " under construction". Any information is appreciated.

By Dan Russell
May 22, 2003

Yes, for a few weeks now. Sheep's Nose is open as well.

Here's the order from April 28th:

www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/hayres/closures.htm

It basically says the rules are pretty much back to normal, just make sure you only park in designated parking areas, which are marked with signs.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 1, 2004

The road is open all the way to the parking area on the backside of Turkey rocks. It is in good shape.It's also open a couple of more miles towards Big rock.9-1-2004

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2004

Any idea how close one can get to Big Rock from the Turkey Rocks side, assuming a moderately beefy 4x4?

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 5, 2004

I was wondering if anyone knows what the fingers/hand crack about 20 ft. right of the 5.6 Nightime Madness 3rd pitch chimney is. It fades out up high and you have to go over a small bulge with virtually no hands and a small nut below you. Felt real real hard. Someone said it was vanishing point but that climb is listed as only 1 pitch.????

By Jack Danneberg
From: Ft Collins
Mar 18, 2013

Howdy, I found a rope on Nighttime Madness on Friday 3/15. If this is your rope, call 303 350 7523 and tell me the color and brand.
Yee Haw!