Mountain Project: Climbing South Platte

This is the main crag in the Turkey Rock area. It has wonderful crack climbing and some scattered face climbing with routes up to 3 pitches in length mostly on its south face. The setting is beautiful, the cracks are plentiful, the difficulties are moderate, and the area is popular. At one point there was an entire guidebooklet devoted to this area with most of the routes on this rock. The granite is known for its coarseness. Taping may be considered for most. The walkoffs are straightforward. Enjoy.

Getting There

When you approach Turkey Rocks from the campgound, you are walking up behind the formations. The trail goes to the top of the hill, and down towards the front of most of the climbs. At the top of the hill, (Looking downhill and away from the climbs) on the left is Turkey Perch. Down, and to the right is Turkey Rock. Turkey Tail is downhill, and left of Turkey Perch.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turkey Rock:

Nightime Madness 5.7 Trad

Stewart's Crack 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches

The Eastern Front 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet

Second Coming 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches

Jump Start 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Gobbler's Grunt 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches

Southern Comfort 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II

Turkey Shoot 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches

Wild Fire 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

The Fiend 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet

Direct Hit 5.9+ R Trad, 2 pitches, 75 feet

Rastafarian 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet

Brain Cramps 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch

Straw Turkey 5.10a Trad, 3 pitches

Satyr's Asshole 5.10- Trad

Finger Lickin' Good 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet

Vanishing Point 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch

Great White Crime 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

In Style, Out of Fashion 5.11 X Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Tryptophane 5.11+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Comments on Turkey Rock

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2013

By Darin Lang
Jul 24, 2001

An alternate, and IMO easier, approach is to continue on FR 360 for approximately 1 mile past the campground sign. Take the first left after you get to the top of the hill (there used to be a tree marked with a red "dot" here), and follow that road until you reach one of two or three indistinct parking areas. Hike straight up and slightly right, aiming for the obvious low point of the ridge, and you will soon find yourself directly above Turkey Perch.

By Dan McNamara
Jul 11, 2002

It is my understanding that all of the Pike national forest is closed due to the Hayman fire. this includes the Turkey rocks area. bummer. The south platte areas near Pine are all private land so they are still open.

By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Jul 12, 2002

Thanks a million dan. I'm glad I didn't head up there today. j monahan

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 1, 2002

I don't get this way much but might go over the weekend. Is it still closed?

By Luc Gruenther
Apr 22, 2003

I just talked to Pete Gallager at the Forest Service yesterday (April 22, 2003) and he said that there will most likely be a limited reopening of the Hayman burn areas on April 28th, 2003. Sheep's Nose will probably be accessible as normal, but climbers may only be able to access Turkey by foot from Stump Ranch...a long hike.

He was sure to emphasize that the decision is a "fluid" one, so don't count on anything for sure. Check www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/ for press releases, especially as we approach the April 28th date.

By Brian Janezich
May 19, 2003

The perch is a good area for intermediate climbers like myself. Make sure and do Stephenwolf which is a classic 5.9 and a bit of a grunt in several places. Make sure and bring some tape gloves too. Awsome area, free camping, friendly climbers, bomber granite and not crowded during the week.

By Jeff Buhl
May 21, 2003

So are Turkey Rocks open now (as of 5-21-03)? I checked the gov't site above but it was " under construction". Any information is appreciated.

By Dan Russell
May 22, 2003

Yes, for a few weeks now. Sheep's Nose is open as well.

Here's the order from April 28th:

www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/hayres/closures.htm

It basically says the rules are pretty much back to normal, just make sure you only park in designated parking areas, which are marked with signs.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 1, 2004

The road is open all the way to the parking area on the backside of Turkey rocks. It is in good shape.It's also open a couple of more miles towards Big rock.9-1-2004

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2004

Any idea how close one can get to Big Rock from the Turkey Rocks side, assuming a moderately beefy 4x4?

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 5, 2004

I was wondering if anyone knows what the fingers/hand crack about 20 ft. right of the 5.6 Nightime Madness 3rd pitch chimney is. It fades out up high and you have to go over a small bulge with virtually no hands and a small nut below you. Felt real real hard. Someone said it was vanishing point but that climb is listed as only 1 pitch.????

By Jack Danneberg
From: Ft Collins
Mar 18, 2013

Howdy, I found a rope on Nighttime Madness on Friday 3/15. If this is your rope, call 303 350 7523 and tell me the color and brand.
Yee Haw!

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Turkey Rock

Description

Getting There

The Classics