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Turkey Peak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Turkey Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Butter Ball S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Butterfingers S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Central Ramp T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
	Culo de Pavo T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Hold My Gravy Watch This T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Mighty Dog S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pressed Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Smoked Turkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Turkey Hooks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Turkey Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
	Windy Ramp T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Elevation:	1,685 ft
GPS:	30.5038, -98.8142 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Steve Marr on Sep 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Joanie Mars, Jim Day Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.

Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.

For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…

830-685-3636

Description

Turkey Peak is the tall, sloping peak east of the Main Dome and due south of Freshman Mountain. It immediately attracts your attention because unlike all of the other formations in the park, Turkey Peak is not a dome, but an actual peak. Considered to be the oldest rock anywhere in the park, it has a completely different feel and type of climbing than the other areas. All of the climbing (ten routes from 5.4 to 5.12a) is found high on the south-southwest face which makes the climbing here feel a little exposed. As you approach the park entrance, you can look to the right and see if anyone is on the wall. This is a great area early morning area in the summer (when its in the shade) or winter afternoon area (sun and protected from the wind). The top of the peak can be reached by scrambling up the northwest side, or by climbing the Central Ramp route at 5.4. The Central Ramp route also serves as a good landmark separating the Mighty Dog Wall from the southwest face.

Getting There

The hike to Turkey Peak is short and pleasant with a good climb at the end. From the upper parking area (closest to the highway), hike to the turn around at the end and pick up the Loop Trail heading northeast. The trail parallels Sandy Creek along its right side. Just before reaching a group pavilion, a trail splits off to the left, crosses the creek, and heads towards Main Dome. Follow this trail round the Frog Pond, and look for a branch leading up to Turkey Peak (the main trail continues on between Main Dome and Freshman Mountain and can be used to access the Backside climbing areas). A short, steep scramble gets you to the base of the wall. You can also approach from the lower parking areas by following the steps down from the gazebo and following the stream bed to the right until it intersects with Sandy Creek. Either follow the creek if its dry, or use the Loop Trail on the right side to the pavilion and head left.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Turkey Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 55 ● Turkey Hooks Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 34 ● Butter Ball Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 21 ● Butterfingers Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 9 ● Mighty Dog Sport