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Cynical Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
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Center Route T 
Class Act S 
CMC Route T 
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 
Hand Job Direct T 
Monkey in the Forest T 
Off-width Route TR 
Rap Crack T 
Rising Crescendo T 
Turf Spreader T 
Twist O' Flex T 
Wunsch's Dihedral T 

Turf Spreader 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Reveley or Tom Fender and Larry Dalke, circa 1973
Page Views: 4,201
Submitted By: Tamas on Aug 17, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Alternate start (around the corner to the right wi...

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  • Description 

    To the right of the Center Route on the Cynical Pinnacle is a beautiful, long, hand-sized crack that heads straight up the slab. This is the 3rd pitch of Turf Spreader.

    P1. You can begin at the bottom of the gully, looking up 40 feet or so into a no-pro chimney, which Hubbel rates 5.8. We chose pro, and headed around the corner to the right, making our first pitch P1 of the Great Chimney. You can even avoid the chimney by heading up the face (5.8ish), to the bolted anchors.

    P2 heads up the 11b roof, which begins with hands and moves smaller and smaller until you get around the corner and discover you'll need some bigger pro. Because of the nature of the roof, we set an anchor as soon as possible around the corner to reduce rope drag.

    P3 is the long, 5.8, hand crack. You can break this up into 2 pitches or stretch out the rope. At the top are assorted slings, backed up with a hex.

    You can continue up or rap from here.

    I'd bring webbing and biners on this route to back up existing anchors. 2 ropes will get you down: one 200' rap down the face from the top of P3; one 100' back to the gully.

    P1 just gets you there. P2 and 3 are fantastic.

    Protection 

    Standard rack to #4 Camalot; doubles in hand sizes for the 5.8 crack.


    Photos of Turf Spreader Slideshow Add Photo
    Mark B leading the horizontal. Beware of the loose, death cookie right here.
    Mark B leading the horizontal. Beware of the loose...
    BETA PHOTO
    Great chimney start.
    BETA PHOTO: Great chimney start.
    Great chimney start (only good pro is at the level of the large chockstone just below the belay). Better to set the belay a bit higher after the next easy section to decrease rope drag and have a visual of the leader on the crux.
    BETA PHOTO: Great chimney start (only good pro is at the level...

    Comments on Turf Spreader Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jason Kennedy
    Oct 7, 2003

    Instead of heading around the corner to the offwidth you can also take the thin left angling crack up to the arete and a beautiful well protected 5.11 face.
    By Kevin Stricker
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Oct 17, 2003

    If finishing on Tough Turf I recommend traversing around to the right shoulder at the end of the 3rd pitch to set up a belay.
    By Jer Collins
    Dec 7, 2003

    Gear Alert
    Climbed this today. Used Sharpend's guidebook. At the end of the beautiful 3rd pitch handcrack (think high Sierras), we followed the obvious, horizontal crack leading left to the 3rd Belay on Center Route. Rated 10-something, we found it pretty straightforward with the last 15 feet to the dihedral being pretty sustained and exciting.

    From here, we headed up the left side 10+ (actually like 9+) handcrack, turned the corner, and finished up the final right-facing dihedral of Wunsch's. Then finally up the bolt ladder. The guidebook said nothing of heading right.

    The way we did it, it was 6 pitches and each one was fantastic.

    Some thoughts:

    -Don't place anything in the 1st pitch chimney until about to exit out the roof. There are two exiting skylights. I'm small...and unless you are much smaller than me, you Will-Not-Fit.

    -After turning the roof, belay on small stuff just 3 feet above, or suffer the consequences. Above the roof, it's wide for a bit. We had a #3, 3.5 and 4 Camalot. This seemed fine.

    -The pin midway on the traverse wiggled back and forth. It was fine, but just keep an eye on it.

    [oops...meant to say - After the crux (2nd pitch) roof, stop to belay right above, not the chimney pitch.]

    [Also, here is a report: arches.uga.edu/~davidste/]

    Jer
    By pete cogan
    Aug 28, 2004

    The fixed gear and all the webbing are gone at the top of P3, the 5.8 crack. There's a new bolt up there with a rap ring, and we added some webbing/link so you have two pieces to rap from.

    Great climbing.
    By James R. Arnold
    Nov 23, 2007

    The upper part of this route sounds great! The 11b corner is probably a little much for us - how easy would it be to aid it?
    By slim
    Administrator
    Nov 27, 2007
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    James,

    Quick easy aid. Probably be worth it, as it is only 10 feet of hard climbing that links up a good chunk of easier, excellent climbing.
    By Jonathan Stickel
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 20, 2013

    After climbing the Center Route, it is possible to rap in and climb the third pitch of Turf Spreader. Adds a 4th pitch of crack climbing to your day!