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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy & Jack Hansen - 1959
FFA: Dick Williams - 1966
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Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 22, 2006
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Turdland is a great face climb just left of Never Never Land. It begins on a large pillar of rock that separates the Never Never Land area from climbs like Balrog and Commando Rave.

Curiously, the book rates it at 5.10d, but it seems highly contrived to do this route at that grade -- the natural course will take you up much easier rock -- even still the wall is steep and the climbing (and protection) is continuously interesting. A few bolts protect the upper face.


Standard Rack.

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By Mr. Malloc
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

You would have to work REALLY hard to make this a 5.10d. Actually, it is a stiff 5.9. The protection is good, but it don't always look screw your head on straight first.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 18, 2006

There's a "direct" variation where you climb straight up at the last bolt that's 10 something. I did it once and thought it was not that hard nor that interesting. The standard way is to traverse right past the bolt and then up at 5.9. Dick has apparently incorporated the variation as the official way to do the route and hence the upgrading.

By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Gotta agree with Ivan, the contrived 5.10d variation is neither fun nor the logical way to go.

Following the logical path this is a superb 5.9 climb with gear just when you want it. Move after move of fun.

By paulmadry
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The direct variation (as described in guidebook) is a stiff 5.9, I do agree (unless you are quite short). But do not expect 5.9 at the upper crux. If you go straight up at overhang ( passing the last bolt a foot or so to your right) it is a hard ten (guidebook rates it 5.10d - why not). Pro is there, no worries.

By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 26, 2013

I've always gone straight up at the last bolt. It is a really fun, exposed move, that doesn't seem contrived to me since it is more direct. Its well protected assuming that old bolt is good.....