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 ADVANCED
The Change Room
Select Route:
Change Up T 
Friction Addiction T,S 
Root Picker T 
Try Me T,S 
Tubby and His Pal T 
Turbulence T 

Turbulence 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marc-Andre Leclerc, Mark Straub
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Nov 26, 2010

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Looking at the upper half of Turbulence... where t...

Description 

The furthest left hand route at the 'Change Room' wall. Turbulence is a good quality but bold route. Make a belay in a bunch of flakes on a ledge around the corner from the base of the arete. Climb a flake crack near the arete. As the crack traverses right move to the arete and climb it to the top. The crux is the unsecure mantle at the top of the arete, very far above the gear.


Location 

This line follow the arete on the far left hand side of the Change Room wall. Climb a short easy crack to gain the belay ledge on the left side of the arete.


Protection 

Hand size cams....



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By Dru
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Added a two bolt rap anchor about 5m past Marc-Andre's old sling-around-a-tree belay. Will give it a touch up scrub and add a bolt at the crux as per M-A's instructions which should tame the R rating somewhat. Great slabby arete climbing overall.

By Dru
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Added two bolts on the cruxy arete section, no longer R rated but still rather airy feeling at the crux.