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Another controversial Slab Wall route, this gymnastic line may be characterized as a vision of things to come, or a complete travesty. Certainly this route could be lead with natural gear, but for better or worse, the route has been fully bolted, and apparently 'comfortized', for your sport-climbing pleasure.
If you can ignore the ethical issues, this route offers a unique hybrid of trad and sport climbing styles. Well developed jamming skills are necessary as are sport climbing techniques and finger strength.
The crux hits right above the choss band with an intense ring lock, devious feet and sequential jamming. A traverse up and right leads to a bomber, sharp, finger-lock and the third bolt. From here things ease up to 5.11-ish hand jamming and the occasional 2-3-finger pocket. Fight the pump through good jams and some long reaches between pods to the anchor.
Be sure to tape up your hands and many fingers for this bad-boy! This route's probably a soft-touch at 13a.
Second route from the right on the Slab Wall. Follows the most prominent bolted crack on the wall.
Bolts to 2 BA. If leading with gear, bring several small pieces to hand-sized cams. Beware that cams have diminshed holding power in polished limestone.
Sep 1, 2008
this is actually a pretty unique route because of its steepness. paul horack apparently tried it with gear in the 80's, it would be interesting to see if anybody is willing to hang on the painful locks and place their own gear. that might be the reason why it got bolted.
|By lance hadfield|
Jun 3, 2010
I think it was lead on gear but not by the coward that chopped it! This needs to stop if you don't like the bolts don't clip it! good for you it is only 5.13a and most of the people skipping bolts on hard routes these days take a picture and leave the rock alone for the rest of us to enjoy.
|By Jarred Cleerdin|
Jun 10, 2010
I agree I am not much of a crack climber and was excited to give this a try feeliing well protected so I wouldnt have to kill my hands or gear. Some one should go re bolt it! And like Lance said do it on gear if YOU want to.