The hardest friction slab I've ever done! The crux involves some "palm stemming". My brother blew his shoulder out on this one.
To the left of Terrebonne Jacks.
Cams for the bottom and bolts to a 2BA.
From: SL UT
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
FA: Bill Boyle
This route presents some of the most technically engaging and improbable climbing i've encountered at The City of Rocks. You can't really call it a slab... Its a shallow stemming-trough that demands three dimentional friction and the funkiness of a dirty dog. This route requires at least a couple of cams to keep the tricky start safe. And even with the gear, I would consider the start a bit dangerous. Also, the bolts above are well spaced and the clipping stances are very delicate- big potential to blow a clip and take a risky fall. Really hard to grade this...I'm sure I've climbed granite stemming corners rated 12d that were easier! The crux is at the 3rd bolt, while moving left to enter the start of the "tunnel". Its the perfect definition of hyper technical funk. The tunnel above is taxing, sustained and delicate.
Climb it and if you get it, like Bingham says: "You will be so Psyched." Also, its actually left of Terrebone Jacks.
|By Jason Young|
Jul 4, 2012
Thanks bheller. I fixed the description (I'm a bit dyslexic). I was just back there a couple of days ago and got to stare up at this rig in awe again! I'm glad to see that others feel the same about it. By the way, I took about a 25' fall on it once and it was actually very clean since it is so steep for a slab.