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Elevation: 5,551 ft
GPS: 51.1775, -115.5528
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 75,925 total · 484/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jun 5, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose

Description Suggest change

ATTENTION: temporary closure due to aggressive elk covering most of the approach until June 30th, 2023. See image here for closure map: nostr.build/i/96b57eefde8f1…

Approach: 10 minutes
Descent: 30 minutes
 Sun from morning to mid afternoon

Tunnel mountain is located practically in the town of Banff. The east side of the mountain provides sport, multipitch sport, and multipitch trad  climbing opportunities. The west side of the mountain sports a maintained tourist trail to the top with several overlooks, only one of which really shows the climbing area well.

Home to the moderate multipitch trad classic Gooseberry (5.8, 7 pitches)

Books to the area include:

*Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by John Martin and Jon Jones (only covers sport climbs, but has the Gooseberry approach info

*Banff Rock by Chris Perry (unpublished, but in preparation)

Getting There Suggest change

From the Trans Canada:

Take the Banff exit and head towards Banff on Banff ave. Drive south 1 km and take the Tunnel Mountain Rd for 5.5 km. Take a left onto Tunnel Mountain Dr and go about 200 m. Park by a winter closer gate and some trashcans next to a wide open field (an underground reservoir).

To Gooseberry area:

Head across the open field towards the cliff and locate the large manhole cover (sorta hidden behind bushes. Pick up the trail and follow it SW. At the first Y, take a right, then angle right at the second Y. At an intersection, keep heading straight for the cliff. When you reach the base skirt south (climbers left) along the base until you find an obvious beat down spot where the climb starts in a 5.6 groove. Most notable, there is a heart shape carved in the rock just right of the route and the route itself has "GB" carved at the start. Kinda lame, but it makes finding it easy.

To Black Band area:

Park at the Banff Surprise Corner viewpoint parking lot on google maps. From the trail at the back of the parking lot, descend a short section of stairs before turning onto a well-worn path that leads downhill through the trees. Follow the Hoodoo trail down to a bend in the Bow river, walk around the bend where there is a slight fork in the trail and head left. Within a short distance there should be a climbers trail which heads left up a beaten trail to the right of the scree slope. Follow it for a few short minutes to the base of the wall. There is no need to walk through the scree slope!

73 Total Climbs

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Location: Tunnel Mountain Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Tunnel Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
Le Soulier
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Gooseberry
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
The Force
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Lenny
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Home Cookin'
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Dab Hand
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Digitalized Chaos
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Who's Afraid of the Big Bad Bear
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
The Dirtbag
Sport 4 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 5
The Missing Linc
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Riel Rebellion
Sport 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
 25
Ballista
Sport, Aid 8 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Tonka (the Gift)
Sport 8 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 30
Riverrun
Sport 9 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Rest In Pieces
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Le Soulier
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Gooseberry
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
The Force
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lenny
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Home Cookin'
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dab Hand
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Digitalized Chaos
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Who's Afraid of the Big Bad…
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Dirtbag
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
The Missing Linc
 5
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Riel Rebellion
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 7 pitches
Ballista
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 8 pitches
Tonka (the Gift)
 15
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 8 pitches
Riverrun
 30
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 9 pitches
Rest In Pieces
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tunnel Mountain »

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