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BETA PHOTO: I believe this is Tun Tavern. We started at the bo...
Climb vertical crack using hand and fist jams (crux) to a ramp in a right facing corner. Continue up the crack pulling into and larger right facing corner with more fist jams. (V1) Continue up through three stacked teeth and make an akward move out of the huge corner and into a chimney. Hand jams to the top.
V1 - Move right at a crack below the stacked teeth. Follow to a horizontal and climb to a stance on top of a huge fang flake. Follow the handcrack moving up and right to the anchors of Felonious Mopery. 5.7 G
Start at the base of vertical crack that runs directly to the top of the cliff. The crack climbs the huge right facing corner which pretty hard to miss. After topping out walk uphill 20 ft to find solid trees to anchor and belay from. It is now possible to use the gear in the crack at the top with a less than perfect tree to set up a top anchor.
Standard Rack plus big gear. An extra BD #3 and a BD #4 (or equivilant hex) are useful as the crack is very wide in spots.
Aug 7, 2012
Variety of interesting climbing moves, pretty fun. Could be much tougher for someone shorter that 5 ft 5 inch. Or much more tricky jamming in one section with non-large hands -- With my fairly large hands, I had nice fist jams in that middle section, but I guess someone with much smaller than that might need to do some sort of "stacking" jams (or some other trick)
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Both routes (the original up on left and V1 to 'fang' on the right) are quality climbs. Not sure about the plus + though.