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Tumbling Dice
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Kevin Leary, Joe Rousek & Tony Puppo, 1989 |
Page Views: | 2,110 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Dec 29, 2006 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
You got to roll me.
This exciting face climbing on this pitch may deserve the R rating ML gives it, but it can be done safely. The crux comes after the first bolt and there is a good chance of crapping out if your partner in crime is not belaying from the correct spot. It is tempting to belay from the anchors atop Return to Forever, but this will introduce enough slack into the system that decking from the crux becomes a much greater possibility. Instead, belay off gear at the top left end of the Hotcake Flake, perhaps 15' up and L of the RTF anchors. Cheating like I don't know how, it is possible to place some sus gear between the first bolt and the crux (red or gold Camalot, red or brown Tri Cam). The gear above the crux is widely spaced but the falls would be clean -- you won't see the time flashing by.
Descent: rap 100' to the top of the Hotcake Flake, then rap 50' from there to the ground using the Return to Forever anchors.
This exciting face climbing on this pitch may deserve the R rating ML gives it, but it can be done safely. The crux comes after the first bolt and there is a good chance of crapping out if your partner in crime is not belaying from the correct spot. It is tempting to belay from the anchors atop Return to Forever, but this will introduce enough slack into the system that decking from the crux becomes a much greater possibility. Instead, belay off gear at the top left end of the Hotcake Flake, perhaps 15' up and L of the RTF anchors. Cheating like I don't know how, it is possible to place some sus gear between the first bolt and the crux (red or gold Camalot, red or brown Tri Cam). The gear above the crux is widely spaced but the falls would be clean -- you won't see the time flashing by.
Descent: rap 100' to the top of the Hotcake Flake, then rap 50' from there to the ground using the Return to Forever anchors.
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