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An excellent route which will test all of your crack climing techniques. This route starts in a left facing dihederal on the south end of the west face just right of a tree and 2 cracks to the left of the 5.10 version of Mcarthy West Face.
The first pitch (10a) is fun and continuous with thin fingers & liebacking up the corner to a belay on top of the column on the left. Pitch 2 heads up a short corner (10a)to another ledge. These pitches could probably be combined with a 60m rope. The third pitch is the meat of the climb. Continue up the obvious crack in the left-facing corner. Although it is "easier" at 5.9 it is wide, continous, and gets more steep as you go for a long 160+ feet. From here you can do some poor climbing up chimneys to reach the summit or do two long raps on double ropes form bolts.
Stoppers and small cams for the first and 2nd pitch. The 3rd pitch is wide and would eat up 3.5 camalots, although 3's work well in spots and you could use a #2 and the bottom of the pitch.
|By Scott Conner|
From: Lyons, CO
Sep 15, 2003
To further help locate this route, the left facing dihedral mentioned in the description is a LF accute corner through one stretch about 50' up. The crack starts out hands, goes to fingers, and eventually peters out to an RP seam (crux).
We only did the 1st 2 pitches. The 3rd pitch looks like an amazing fist/OW crack. Beautiful climb with great pro. Sustained and varied. Awesome! Scott Conner
|By John Gunnels|
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Make SURE of your placements on P2. The moves are deceiving...
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
May 10, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The third pitch is not to be missed, just bring extra big cams. We didn't have enough so I had to run it out about 15 feet between some pieces and fiddle with large hexes.
Feb 12, 2007
I thought the third pitch was the crux of the climb: lots and lots of moves, few rests and deep, elusive, difficult jams for small hands. Keep your psych up even though it's "only" 5.9.
|By Nathan Furman|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 29, 2008
A partner and I did this several years ago. The seasonal rangers said that the third pitch had a reputation for being the hardest 5.9 pitch in the country.
Although I think that may be overstating the case, the 3rd pitch is certainly a good workout. My partner was so exhausted mid-pitch that he decided to lower off rather than struggle/thrutch for another 45 minutes. His OW technique was probably a little underdeveloped, but, yeah, the pitch really gives you the what for.
Protects fine, though. Super fun.
|By Greg Sievers|
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 25, 2008
a comment & few tricks that may help some taller, and big handed folks.
1. the thin seam crux of P1, is dicey for sausage fingered people. but it took C3 x #00.
2. P2 can be made easier by stemming to the left wall. Im 6', and it maxed by span, but helped tremendously.
3. P3 is the enduro pitch. it is not OW. no place for arm bars, or heel-toe here. but it is a fist crack (horizontal fist). thick tape, or hand-jammies will help alot. camming the foot, an occasional knee, and lemaz will help.
4. a triple rack from #2-#4, will help. perhaps even 4, #3.5s
|By Joe Dawson|
Jun 1, 2009
The first pitch is quality climbing on good rock. We only did the first pitch. Our book said to take some RPs to protect the crux. You do not need any RPs to protect the crux or any other part of the pitch 1. My girlfriend placed a #5 Stopper at the crux and that was the smallest piece she used.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2009
The third pitch will take some BD #4's.
|By Kurt Prond|
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 6, 2011
Great Route! I stemmed most of the first pitch, especially the seam. Linked the second, which makes sense though the rope gets pretty dang heavy to pull up and clip. 3rd pitch, while maybe not technically harder, was definitely more sustained and will test your stamina. I bumped a BD #4 for about 40 feet. Nice little roof move at the end also.
|By Mike McNeil|
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Oct 9, 2011
Dudes from Ft. Collins on 3rd pitch of Tulgey Wood
|By Kevin Dahlstrom|
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jul 19, 2012
P1 & P2 Felt more like 10b/c to me (maybe because I have sausage fingers). It's all there but the route is sustained and technical. P2 is short but stout.
Nov 21, 2012
I thought this pitch was a bit technical for 10a. Great climb though