Begin with a double hands double heels on a slacktite. Move into a series of sidepulls using OK edges. The crux is moving off of two sloper at midway to an OK undercling, followed by a series of lockoff gastons. The climbing doesn't ease from there, as it remains extremely pumpy all the way to the anchors.
Left of the Stiffler
|By Ryan Palo|
From: Bend, oregon
Jan 1, 2008
We keep finding kneebars on this rig. Two so far. We'll see if it affects the grade
|By Alex Baker|
Oct 21, 2011
What a fun route. It's hard to believe that an additional kneebar rest wouldn't affect the grade of thing, since a lot of the difficulty comes from the sustained nature of the route. I say we just call it 5.13 and savor the rad movement this climb offers.