2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Tuesday Afternoon (TA) pulls the roof just left of Melancholy Man (MM) and joins MM at the second bolt on the slab. Climb up to the roof, undercling, clip, and boulder over the roof. TA is a fun variant start to MM with slightly harder moves at the roof.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 1, 2008 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
A good boulder problem to an OK climb, but not too clean. My partner pulled off a few chalked-up holds the size of footballs under the crux roof, then I pulled off the huge starting flake (150 lbs, estimated). The climb is probably safer now, and more solid.... Fun moves, less interesting up top than below.
We cleaned up the mess left on the ground and built a nice little bench out of it.
By Eric Peers May 31, 2008 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
We climbed this on Thursday - thanks for knocking the big stuff off. There's a lot of sand on it, and a fair bit of loose rock still. I'd give the boulder-ey section a 5.11c/d for one move and the remainder roughly a 5.10... so maybe 5.11 as an average.
But it's a pretty tricky boulder move off that left hand to the sidepull. Doesn't feel very secure.
While climbing on this last week, we had an unfortunate occurrence on this rock. After my first send, I wanted to go a second time and clean the roof for a friend, and the sketchy flake on the roof, that was always suspect, finally broke. My feet were on it and I was reaching for the sidepull when all of a sudden CRACK,two pieces of rock flew out, nearly killing my innocent belayer.
Needless to say, its a bit harder start now, probably in the 12a/b range, so while aI agree with the previous grade of 11a as a whole, that bouldery start has some more burl in it.
Anyone try it since then?
By cary gray Jul 5, 2009 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a R
I climbed this today - coming out of the roof gave me the most trouble - I think I cracked off the very last of what was the infamous "flake." And now, without it, I'd feel very confident rating this section 5.12a and the remainder 5.11b/c (keeping the upper slab crux in mind).
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 6, 2009 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
Hmmm. Choss evolves over time. Perhaps this one should have been better cleaned from the get-go, given the venue and nature of the climb.
The flake at the roof appears to be gone now. I'm not sure how hard the crux is now (I'm not good at roof climbs), but it seems hard for 11.
By Top Rope Hero From: Was Estes Park, now homeless Jul 18, 2011 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
Hmmm.... Sent this over the weekend on third blast. Don't know what the "flake" was like, but without it, I thought the roof move was maybe 11d with some worthy, mid-10 moves up top. (I certainly had to pull the roof in the opposite fashion from what's pictured here. Is THAT the flake in the photo?)