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Tuefelstalwand

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Alpentraum S 
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Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ S 

Tuefelstalwand 


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Location: 46.6497, 8.5967 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011
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The impressive Teufelstal wall near Andermatt (as ...

Description 

An extraordinary well hidden west-facing wall in the Tuefelstal, a deep, narrow side gorge that opens into the larger Schoellenen gorge.

Although very close to Andermatt and the noisy road through the Schoellenen gorge, the area is tranquil and secluded.

The area was brought to life in the past few years with the opening of several new lines.

The rock is a very high quality granite, is steep and is laced with splitter cracks.

As the gorge is very deep and very narrow, even in high summer the lower half of the climbs have limited sunlight. As such, the routes are best climbed when temperatures are amicable. Early in the spring there is snow in the base of the gorge, which could present access challenges.


Getting There 

The area is accessed via an abseilpiste down the opposing, east-facing wall.

To access the abseilpiste, drive (or take the train) up the Oberalp pass road from Andermatt. Park (or get off the train) at Naetschen. Follow the unpaved military road that crosses over the train tracks, heading north. At the first 180 degree curve in this road (elevation 1880m), descend on a marked trail with a sign towards Bannwald Chilchenberg. After descending around 50 vertical meters, the path climbs a bit again, heading to the north/east. Look for a marking with "Ausstieg Klettersteig". Follow this to the top of the via ferrata. Perhaps 30-40 minutes in total from Naetschen.

At the top of the via ferrata, follow a faint trail to your right (towards the edge of the gorge) for 50 meters, looking for red markings on the rock and a large, chain anchor. Abseil 3x40 meters, more or less straight down - there are a series of red markings along the way to guide you. Be careful on the second abseil, there is a monster crack that doesn't let go of ropes that fall down into it. At the base of the gorge, there are fixed ropes and route markings to assist with the orientation.

When you top out, follow the trail, which has periodic red markings and fixed ropes where exposed. The trail gains a bit of elevation before making a wide arch to the south around the gorge and back to the military road. Follow the military road all the way back to Naetschen.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Tuefelstalwand
Pitch ten of Zeichen der Freundschaft (6b+), the crux pitch of the route, ascending a PERFECT layback crack, stemming with the fin on the left side of the corner at first, then full-on layback up to the bulge, and a hard traverse along the bulge to exit.

Zeichen der Freundschaft 6b+ 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Tuefelstalwand
A wonderful line following various corner and crack systems. Entertaining from bottom to top, and very homogeneous in difficulty. This route, still quite new, is destined to become a classic.Pitches go at 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6b, 5c+, 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+. We found the final pitch to be the most demanding: after a gorgeous layback crack, the pitch traverses several meters to the right, underneath a bulge, where a very solid portion of counterpressure (arms pulling an undercling, feet pushing against ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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