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Tucson Climbers! I need your expertise.

Original Post
J-Rog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Mt Lemon is giant with way too many possibilities. If you could pick one area on the Mt during April, for the best single pitch cracks, where would you go? Or if that's not possible, what would be your perfect day!
I'm a phoenix climber who's only been to raycreation so feel free to tell me what else to get on!
I have Squeezing the Lemon but there is so much that I'm a little overwhelmed. Don't worry about grades or accessibility, I just want to make the drive worth it!

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

I would head the other way for crack climbing

mountainproject.com/v/parad…

mountainproject.com/v/the-o…

J-Rog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Hey Christian. Thanks for the reply, but I've been up north way more than down south. So I'd really like to get to know what Tucson has to offer for plugging gear and day trips.

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

It's mostly trad-protected face climbing with fiddly gear with a tiny bit of actual crack climbing here or there.

Two good areas are Chimney Rock and Troll Wall. With the above-average temps right now Chimney might get too hot later in the day, for Troll Wall you're better off hanging out at Munchkinland until around 1 or so then head down when the shade starts coming around.

Jimbo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,310

I second Christian, Chimney Rock and Troll Wall. Lots of great Mt. Lemmon "Cracks" at both areas. Also there's some really good trad and mixed stuff at Weather Top. Shady until 2:00 pm this time of year.

Don't forget Lizard Marmalade Direct at Windy Point. Arguably the best route on the Lemmon.

Dj telle · · Mexico City , Tucson, AZ · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 1,874

You should go to chimney rock, red diamond wall or windy point. Another classic line is the credibility gap almost as good as Liz.marm

MJW · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 20

All good advice. Chimney Rock prolly has the best/highest concentration for straight-up trad....more in the 5.9-10 range. Troll Wall is amazing. I think Goosehead is really good too....and The Pharaoh/Ripple as well. If you can get up 5.11 the window really opens up.

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,185

it is not that much further than driving up lemmon to keep heading south and east to the stronghold. as on lemmon, you will not find the density of splitters found at certain crags in NAZ. what you will find is great camping and world-class climbing with pantloads of plates, chickenheads, slabs, runouts and a mish-mash of enjoyable cracks thrown in the mix. Christian left volunteer and the waterfall off his list, if you haven't checked out those places, and splitters are what you seek, you should.

it was still chilly with the wind, even on a sunny climb, as of yesterday, so the season is far from over...

Brian Benedon · · Tucson · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,682

the Reef of Rocks, Troll Wall, North Park, Five Mile Wall,
Table Mountain, OCB in the Fall.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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