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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
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> 1) Super Mario Boulder
Tubin' Dudes
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Harrison Dekker (1990) |
Page Views: | 2,539 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Nov 5, 2011 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
"Tubin' Dudes" is just one of the many great powerful routes to choose from near the Super Mario Boulder. Retreat back to this shady corner for meat locker temps. You'll want it nice and cool to bear down on some small holds.
Surmount an old stump, transfer to a boulder and then reach to a perfect horn to begin the climb. Nice flowing moves lead to a violent crux at the second bolt. Go straight up here or as guidebook author Mike Williams threatens "run the risk of being ridiculed for circumnavigating the move." The move is definitely big, but doesn't necessarily have to be a standard dyno.
Once established at the third bolt, veer right and lauch in to a V6 boulder problem clearing the roof. Clip the fourth bolt from a good slot just above the bolt. Rest up for some intriging lateral movement enroute to the chains.
This route has top quality stone and offers something that most bouldery routes lack, all the draws are easy to clip. Its refreshing to climb a bouldery route without the fear of blowing a clip.
Surmount an old stump, transfer to a boulder and then reach to a perfect horn to begin the climb. Nice flowing moves lead to a violent crux at the second bolt. Go straight up here or as guidebook author Mike Williams threatens "run the risk of being ridiculed for circumnavigating the move." The move is definitely big, but doesn't necessarily have to be a standard dyno.
Once established at the third bolt, veer right and lauch in to a V6 boulder problem clearing the roof. Clip the fourth bolt from a good slot just above the bolt. Rest up for some intriging lateral movement enroute to the chains.
This route has top quality stone and offers something that most bouldery routes lack, all the draws are easy to clip. Its refreshing to climb a bouldery route without the fear of blowing a clip.
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