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Tubby and His Pal 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: A. Dunlop & J. McDonald
Season: all
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Apr 8, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Tubby and His Pal from below.

Description 

One of the hardest splitters in the area. An overhanging finger/thin hands crack in a great position high above road.

Pull bouldery moves over the lip to gain the splitter, then sustained off-size jamming in the overhanging crack leads the easier ground. Sick and pumpy!


Location 

'Tubby and His Pal' is located on a large diamond shaped block easily visible from the road where the trail turns off. Can be approached from the top of 'Bigfoot' via a short scramble or by rapping in from above. Hike the trail towards the base of the 'Falcons Crest Wall' but traverse ledges east (right) when reaching the base of the wall. Follow these ledge to the end, flex up a rope in a corner and hike approx 2 minutes up the gully above. Follow and obvious ramp out of the gully right (east) and find the top of the route where the ramp flattens out. (trail approach approx 30 minutes)


Protection 

Bomber protection the entire way. Bring several cams from finger to hand size and a few medium stoppers.



Photos of Tubby and His Pal Slideshow Add Photo
Tubby and His Pal block from the road.
BETA PHOTO: Tubby and His Pal block from the road.
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 8, 2009

This sounds spectacular; I'd love to see a picture....

By Marc-Andre
From: Squamish, B.C
Apr 8, 2009

Yes, it is an unknown gem. It probably has never been repeated, but I plan to go up there as soon as the weather gets good again and lead it. I just cleaned it off and cleared the access trails over the past two days.