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Tubby and His Pal 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: A. Dunlop & J. McDonald. FFA Michael Crapo, Jason Crapo 24 June 2014
Season: all
Page Views: 665
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Apr 8, 2009  with updates from michael crapo

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The FFA of Tubby. This view is extremely forshorte...

Description 

One of the hardest splitters in the area. An overhanging finger/thin hands crack in a great position high above road.

Pull bouldery moves over the lip to gain the splitter, then sustained off-size jamming in the overhanging crack leads the easier ground. Sick and pumpy!

Location 

'Tubby and His Pal' is located on a large diamond shaped block easily visible from the road where the trail turns off. Can be approached from the top of 'Bigfoot' via a short scramble or by rapping in from above. Hike the trail towards the base of the 'Falcons Crest Wall' but traverse ledges east (right) when reaching the base of the wall. Follow these ledge to the end, flex up a rope in a corner and hike approx 2 minutes up the gully above. Follow and obvious ramp out of the gully right (east) and find the top of the route where the ramp flattens out. (trail approach approx 30 minutes)

Protection 

Bomber protection the entire way. Bring several cams from finger to hand size and a few medium stoppers.


Photos of Tubby and His Pal Slideshow Add Photo
Tubby and His Pal from below.
BETA PHOTO: Tubby and His Pal from below.
Tubby and His Pal block from the road.
BETA PHOTO: Tubby and His Pal block from the road.

Comments on Tubby and His Pal Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 8, 2009

This sounds spectacular; I'd love to see a picture....
By Marc-Andre
From: Squamish, B.C
Apr 8, 2009

Yes, it is an unknown gem. It probably has never been repeated, but I plan to go up there as soon as the weather gets good again and lead it. I just cleaned it off and cleared the access trails over the past two days.
By michael crapo
From: mission b.c.
Jun 25, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Amazing route! Got it last night with Jason. I did a bunch of trail work, added 5 fixed hand lines, and cleared the base of the route. Marc's approach description is very close, but it can be tricky to find the base of the route. At the end of the long hand line (orange)up the wet corner and into the timbers, the first huge tree to the right with tape is it. Step down and traverse right(7mm hand line)and up to the base. If you want to TR it, continue straight up from the big tree then trend right to the obvious clear top. There is a new chain anchor at the lip, in line with the route.