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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
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An "Unknown" to White Line Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonsai T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crazy Woman Driver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise Control T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friday's Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Bansai Here S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 225 ft (68 m) |
| FA: | Joe Cote & Mike Hartrich, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 1,773 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open.
Details
Description
Another beautiful climb on the "Perfect Wave Slab". Handren gave it 3 stars out of 3 (the only such rating he gave to any Rainbow climb).
See the ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.
Approach- From where the climber's path reaches the slab, walk right along the base about 35-40 ft. Go uphill to a dirt ledge below a brownish 12ft-high slab. Scramble ( 5.4 ? )or belay-climb up the 12 ft face to a large ledge with a couple of pine trees, one of which is knocked over.
An interesting alternate approach is to climb Perfect Wave (5.7) as far as the threaded anchor, and WITH A 70 METER ROPE, “thread“ the anchor with your own ‘biner(s) and then lower down ("tension traverse" downhill) Tsunami to this same ledge. Don't try it with a 60M rope!...( or even an old, or shortened, 70m ) and don't try it as your first ( or even 2nd) tension traverse. The second then follows up to the anchor and is lowered by the leader on the ledge. KNOT THE END ( see photo )
P1 - From the tree ledge (see topo), climb up and left to the obvious dike; follow this to the threaded anchor of Perfect Wave. 115 ft 5.6
Descent- Thread the anchor and rappel ( KNOT ENDS !, see photo) back with a 70M, or ( better) continue climbing up to the top of the slab and the bolted anchor at the top of Silver Surfer.
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