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Little Eiger
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Tsunami Of Charisma S 
Unknown TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Tsunami Of Charisma 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,043
Submitted By: T. Kieser on Jun 4, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The start, showing the first two bolts.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Travis Trigg and I worked hard last week to get Tsunami of Charisma established. We deserve equal credit for the route. This one is destined to become a Little Eiger classic!

There is a dog tag on a hangerless bolt, with route name, grade and length at the base of the climb. Tsunami of Charisma really is a full 35 meters!

Temporarily, the second from the last climb to the right (west). Place a longer draw on the first bolt to avoid drag. Flash pump out the big roof 5.11, it's not as chossy as it looks. Cruise up easy face to a small overhang. Gain a thin friction slab and crimp past five clips 10d/11a, continue on steep rock to the anchor 5.9+. In the 5.9 section there is one block I am a little concerned about. We marked it with an "X" of chalk and will try again soon to get it to go! For now, take care not to use it.


Protection 

Approximately 16 QDs.



Photos of Tsunami Of Charisma Slideshow Add Photo
Above the opening cruxes and headed for the tricky slab crux.
Above the opening cruxes and headed for the tricky...
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By T. Kieser
Jun 14, 2006

A few words of safety beta:

The first bolt is placed far to the right to minimize rope drag. However, a fall on the first bolt will spin and slam you against the right wall as the climb starts well left. To avoid getting abused and or flipped you should climb with your rope over your right arm/shoulder. This will give you a clean fall with no risk of a spin or flip. The other option is to stick clip the second bolt, but then you will not have actually led the crux. I discovered this by falling on the first bolt several times and stopping upside down with my head about a foot over the ground. Once I placed the rope over my shoulder, the fall was much safer.

Thor

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 20, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Thanks for the TR! That's a fun start. Slab felt stiff at 11-, but I'm not a slab master. Thanks for these fun route additions on the right side of Little Eiger! Addendum: went back & did the slab, starting to the right, which seemed a bit easier.

By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Start and slab felt a little stiff for CCC 11a/b. Once the ledges directly above the overhang clean up, this should be a really fun route!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 20, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Excellent route and great vision! Better than Natural Selection. can clip second bolt from trick kneebar. upper slab moves are fantastic.

By Niccole
From: Denver, CO
Jul 18, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I really liked this route, short people can sit under the overhang and get both feet on the right wall to stand and stem out. (This is how I did it).

By Thor.K
Apr 1, 2010

Somone keeps stealing the dog tag on Tsunami and on Tierra Del Fuego?

Pretty weird, but I guess people will steal whatever is not tied down. Maybe they have a dog named "Tsunami of Chrisma" and "Tierra Del Fuego". (Laughing out loud)! - Thor

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

That's funny! Maybe they nickname them Tsu-Chri and Ti-Dee Fu!

By KDog
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Nice long route. 2 distinct cruxes for me: the initial burly roof to start and the slab mid-way up. The slab part felt hard....maybe even 11+?? But this was also the 1st time I'd ever been on the route. Fun little roof pull 3/4 way up and mostly moderate climbing besides the cruxes. Our 70 just got us down, rope drag kinda sucks but it's a good route nonetheless.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jun 24, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The upper slab is much harder than the roof start. It's hard to compare the two though as the upper crux is thin slab climbing while the initial overhang is physical and takes a lot of strength. Clipping the second bolt is not too bad if you brace your left shoulder on the flake and stem out right. It helps to be small to do this.

By Luke Childers
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Powerful and desperate! Awesome slab issue. Movement is excellent with well rounded stylistic channleges. Should be done.