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Central Reservation Climbs
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Round Rock (S E Side) T 
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Tsaile Peak (So. Face) T 
Whale, NE Arete, The T 
Window Rock III (Crag) T 

Tsaile Peak (So. Face) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Povolny, Todd Gordon, Oct. 1982
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 16, 2007

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Description 

Tsaile Peak is the large Volcanic Peak seen to the east of the settlement of Tsaile. Arizona. Pitch one; 5.8 shelves to hand crack to belay ledge. Pitch two; traverse Right to chimney/chute (5.9) to hanging belay. Chimney is hard to protect. Pitch three; Climb straight up steep rock (5.10) through some bushes to a belay ledge. Pitch 4; climb a flake on the left...tunnel through. Pitch 5; climb to top from left side of terrace, via a 5.7 chimney The rock on this climb is loose.

Location 

The large volcanic peak as seen from the settlement of Tsaile Tsaile is where the big Navajo Community college is. The Formation is off to the east of Tsaile. Follow dirt roads to the peak, from Tsaile. Follow your nose.

Protection 

Double or triple rack of cams, stoppers, slings;...no pins needed. Down climb East face (included is one rap)


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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 16, 2007

Volcanic rock;.....Shiprock, Agathlan, Tsaile Peak;....a break from red sandstone. I did the F. A. of this peak with Brian Povolny in Oct. of 1982. The ascent was Brian's idea. I don't remember much about this climb; I was gripped the whole way, because I forgot my helmet, and whenever Brian was leading , I had to belay with one hand on the rope, and another hand covering (inadequately, too...) my head from rocks which were coming down. The climbing was sort of grippy anyways;....the no helmet bit made the whole experience sort of irritating for me. This area is in a pine forrest, and I believe people sometimes go hiking around this area, but not very often. Even though it is close to Tsaile College (It's the one with the cool multi-story glass library building shaped like a hogan!)...I don't think this area gets visited too often. It's cold and snowy here during the winter months. I would imagine that this route has NOT had a 2nd ascent.