T.S. Special 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo, Tobin Sorenson, Pete Wilkening & Jim Wilson, December 1973 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Echo Rock. "TS Special" goes up the buttress on th...
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Description Start at the toe of the buttress (same as for Swept Away) and climb the slab directly up to the prominent roof which is turned via some thought-provoking moves to a stance with a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead up and left to the bolted belay/rap for Swept Away. Rap off with a single 60 meter rope or make it more of an adventure and walk off.
A fun route that is recommended for those solid at the grade. Pro can be placed in the crack at the base of the roof, but the moves over the roof are largely unprotected and will result in a fall onto the slab.
Protection pro to 2.5", bolt, anchors
BETA PHOTO: "TS Special".
Photo by Blitzo.
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The slab leading to the roof of TS Special
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By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 6, 2003
Gear Alert
| The bolt is still a quarter-incher I believe, although you'll still be happy to clip it. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 6, 2004
rating: 5.9-
| I used to enjoy laughing with people who complained about manky bolts, or fp. I'd always ask rhetorically if they clipped it and always recieved the sheepish smirk of affirmation. |
By Woody Stark
Dec 17, 2004
rating: 5.9
| A good route that deserves two stars in my opinion. I followed it many years ago and had forgotten the exposed nature of the overhang (crux). If the leader blows it here he'll need a litter. The face above (never more than 5.6) is runout for about 60'; but pro can be set in the crack to the right if you want to move in that direction. The bolt above the overhang is ancient but lovely. |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 17, 2004
rating: 5.9
| I followed Woody up this and can only give it one star due to the ease of getting to the roof and how easy it was above it. I found it to be a "Boulder" problem above and below a relatively easy start/finish.........but the roof moves were cool so I say give it a shot. Straight forward rap off of bolts and a short walk to your gear....... |
By Alex A
Aug 6, 2007
| When I did this one back in 1984, it was 5.8 and no R rating. This one is dangerous, I broke my foot, be warned. |
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 20, 2009
| I'd have to climb this route again to opine on the rating. I probably did it some 25 yrs. ago. I wanted to add a comment mostly to say I think it is a good route, even if the roof is far, far harder than the rest of the route. It's an adventure for sure and the roof will really test your will to commit. |
By RTM
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 R
| One of my first leads ever, back when I thought climbing was supposed to be scary and dangerous. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.9 R
| A commanding line though, right up the middle of the buttress - I enjoyed it. |
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