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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
FA: ???
Page Views: 964
Submitted By: Chris Barlow on Sep 12, 2003
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This is the route that follows the bulging wall that one descends when rapping off the anchor on the first pitch of Straw Turkey. It is a somewhat popular toprope but has only been led once to my knowledge.

To climb it, start on Straw Turkey, following it to the top of the first steep dihedral. Here, instead of continuing up the next dihedral, move left about five feet along a horizontal under a one foot roof. In the middle of the bulge, load up the horizontal with cams, maybe a stopper or two, and cast off into the overhang above via thin edges until you do a long pull to a good horn. Continue straight up the slab (5.8 or 5.9, no protection) until you rejoin Straw Turkey for the final flake section and step right.

The pro is just below your feet for the last hard move and the fall is clean; after that, I wouldn't recommend falling. You can also toprope (2 ropes) easily from the cable anchor on top of Straw Turkey.


Bring a set of stoppers, a doubles set of TCUs to a .75 Camalot, and a #1 and #2 Camalot.

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