From the ground, this excellent line looks like just another Cactus Cliff-style bolted crack squeeze job. There is no doubt this line encroaches on its ultra-classic neighbor "Family Jewels". However, the climbing is surprisingly good and the rock is excellent, making it a worthy addition.
Begin with some easy scrambling past two widely spaced bolts. As the wall steepens, long cranks between large, flat edges lead to a slight bulge and a splitter crack. The great thing about this line is that you can climb the business like a crack, with bomber jamsd and fingerlocks, or you can face climb right over the crack, with cool sidepull moves, great crimps and sinker pockets. A final bulge appears above a good ledge, just below the last bolt, where a hidden hold allows easy passage.
This is immediately right of "Family Jewels", on the left end of The Vault.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I really enjoyed this line. Could use some more traffic, but the crack moves are great!
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 24, 2013
Loved this route, great crack to layback with a big mantle towards the top.