2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A combination of bolted and traditional lines at this crag. The rock could use a little more cleaning in many places. (Bring a brush and do yourself and others a favor.) Varied pro exists on the trad lines while the bolted lines are considerably bolted. Most of the routes end at double bolt anchors, or via easy walk offs. "Inca Stone", "Sacrificial Virgin", and "Jamie" are great routes to do while visiting this crag.
To find this crag, look for the sign "Boulder Falls 1000 feet" just before Boulder Falls (approx 7.2 miles up canyon). The crag sits on the right side of the road (going up the canyon). Park across the road from the 'Boulder Falls 1000 Feet' sign in a pullout. The best way to approach the crag is by a faint trail 100 feet before the 'Boulder Falls 1000 Feet' sign. Watch for poison ivy wherever you head up the hill. The crag is cut into a left and right side, divided by a choppy mossy gully. The trail should place up in the middle of the two crags. Left side (3-4 routes) Right side (9 routes).
This route starts directly in front of a large dead tree at the beginning of the rock wall below the crag. There are 2 starts, either pull to and clip the first bolt (extended draw) of "Sacrifical Virgin" or climb unprotected about 10 feet left of this bolt. Once at this point, continue around the corner, into an obvious, left-facing dihedral to the top. The gear is good, just keep looking for it. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone
[Ed. Note - this was Tony Bubb's rock submission - Inca Stone was already in the database, so.... the info gets put here]
Details: Inca Stone is a ho-hum crag in Boulder Canyon, up past the Bihedral about an additional .25 miles on the North side. The broken and 'chunky looking' crag faces primarily south and is somewhat sheltered by trees. It's close proximity to the road (~150 yards) leads to plenty of road-noise. On the right side, the short cliff is slightly overhung and seemed to have stayed dry even in the light rain that was falling when I visited this crag.
The rock quality is somewhat dubious in many spots, and the routes are between only 25-55 feet tall. The routes on the right-hand side might have been left as boulder broblems, were it not for the cleaver sitting below them at the base. Instead, one has 2 bolts and a bolted belay, for a mere 20' of climbing.
There are sport and trad routes there, but just a few of each. While a couple of the routes are not too bad, their short length prevents then from being noteworthy.
Maybe this is a good crag to visit on a rainy day or to practice rope-work at. It is far from being a desireable climbing destination, with all of that good rock so closely nearby. Get There: Go up Canyon Road from Boulder about .25 miles past The Bihedral, and pull over on the South side of the road. Walk back down on the road (east) until a less-steep area beside the road appears. The trail to the cliff base from there is evident, but not obvious. Walk up and left to the base of the cliff on either side, but it is hard to appraoch from the center.
We climbed at Inca Stone (aka Truth or Consequences) for the first time yesterday. I thought it was well worth a visit if you can climb hard 10 to 11. The right side had good sun until 3pm despite being relatively low down. The sun was just skirting the top of the ridge on the other side of the canyon. The left side was shady due to trees. The "window" is a mini natural wonder, and it's worthwhile hiking up to see that even if you don't plan to climb. It's likely that the name, "Inca Stone", is based on this natural window/arch.