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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Wrist T 

Trusty Rifle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Dave Saball, Randy Schenkel, Andy Schenkel, 1984
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 29, 2009

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Description 

Begin at the ledge that marks the start of Bloody Bush.

From Rick Cronk: The FA of the offwidth below the Bloody Bush ledge, originally known as Rusty Jam and now appearing as a variation at 5.9, was done by myself, Matt Muchnik, Kevin Bein, Rich Perch and John Bragg in 1975. It involved a complete ascent of three pitches to the top. Bein, Perch and Bragg continued on their way along the Trapps from the top of the first pitch. Not knowing of the undocumented 1950's ascent of Bloody Bush (Easy Street), Muchnik and I continued up that corner to the GT. Our third pitch wandered up just left of Rusty Trifle to the top. After 9 years Swain and party added a new separate 2nd pitch and a new name. So it goes.

From the ledge, make a big step up and out left onto a smaller ledge, then climb up 10 feet or so to a small roof; just above the roof there is a shallow seam. Move slightly left until you are standing on good footholds, then go straight up to a large horizontal. Back right a few feet, then climb straight up to a large pine tree. As described, this pitch is often empty, and has good protection (albeit with a bit of work) and interesting moves.

There are several pitches to be climbed from the GT ledge. Straight up from the rappel tree is easy, 5.5 or so, jugs and overlaps to a right-facing white corner (this is P3 of Rusty Trifle?).

Next-left is a runout, somewhat harder pitch.

Over further left (30' or so), you can climb trending right up discontinuous cracks at about 5.8 and PG; the Williams guide describes this as the top pitch of Trusty Rifle.

Rappel from trees -- watch for pine sap.


Location 

Start at the ledge were Bloody Bush begins


Protection 

Several small TCUs



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By David Stowe
Apr 29, 2009

There is no point to climb Trusty Rifle without starting from the ground. Start from the ground and do it in one pitch up the GT ledge and it goes at about 5.9. The first part off of the deck has the best and most interesting climbing. It is a rare Gunks opportunity to do some offwidth climbing with a chicken wing move. Fun pitch.

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 3, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Read Swain's guidebook versus Williams for this route. It is Swain's route. As mentioned...It starts on the ground at an overhanging offwidth crack and is rated 5.9. Very strenuous.

By vanishing spy
Sep 27, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Start from the ground with some difficult jamming, laybacking, shitting. The crack is often dirty, which adds to the difficulty.

By analogical
Apr 27, 2010

Agree with all comments except two - the offwidth is reasonably clean, and you don't need big gear (not that it will go unused if you have it). A large hex is better than a cam before the crack flares wide, and a #3 Camalot after it tapers back down will protect you just fine. 5.9 seems right, maybe 9+, but this isn't Sacher Cracker.

By JSH
Administrator
Jun 4, 2010

The Black Dick described, basically: starting at the ledge, go up a thin seam and climb the face left of the major arete, to the GT ledge, 5.9 G. This seemed thin enough to be easy 5.9, to me; I'm not sure it's the same as what you've described here.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 21, 2010

I started off the ledge. I found it to be a little scary. The crux was hard and the stance above the crux wasn't great (I wanted BIG jugs) and I had to work a bit to get in some trustworthy gear (I think I should have trended left, based on note above). Once over the crux, the climb backs way down and it's an easy cruise to the GT ledge. I don't think it's climbed frequently, there was a lot of mud in the horizontals and in places where I thought I would have a good hold (not). It's probably not as bad as I am saying, my biorhythms were off kilter today...

By David Stowe
Aug 21, 2010

Definitely not climbed a lot. If you were looking for jugs you were in the wrong place; the climbing is thin face off of the ledge. Did you run into tree sap towards the GT? You should try it from the ground sometime -- there's really good climbing down low

By Janine Connell
Apr 22, 2013

It is listed as G in the book, but the gear placements off the ledge are tricky.