Trust Me, I Lie
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Pitch 1: Start in the middle of the slab on a nice flat perch. Climb the easy slab to some thin and slabby moves above a bolt (crux), or bail into the seam left. Clip one (or two) bolts on Behavior Issues, then continue up and left on a giant hollow varnish plate. Up and over this to an anchor. 5.10a.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up through the mellow slab to a sloping ledge, traverse right, and finish on the wide crack of the second pitch of Behavior Issues. 5.8.
Rappel with one 60m rope to the anchor of Behavior Issues, and then once more to the ground.
Bolts to chains.
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yeah, you lie about the rating! Either I missed something really obvious, or a hold broke, cause that ain't 9+/10a.
By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 10, 2014
bcf, I'll agree; it's a pretty spicy slab at 10a. That being said, it's about a million times easier and not nearly as scary as the Sumo Greatness slab at children's crag, put up in 1982 by Paul and Sal. 5.9+ they say. Likely an on-purpose sandbag to mess with John Long, who put up a 10b slab right next to it the year before. The 9+ is significantly harder than that one too, and much scarier.