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This is a mixed route. The bolts are painted so locate the route a little left of the bush right and uphill of the short sport climbs (Lucid Fairyland and unknown right of LF). The climb goes straight up to a ledge then trend left up a crack and finally step right and up to the anchor with chains. A 60m rope with stretch will get you to the ground.
See beta picture, climb starts near bush at the right. The climb is the last climb on the right.
Light rack, save a couple of larger cams for the second half of the pitch (ca. 3 & 3.5 Friend).
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jun 18, 2011
4 bolts that are easy to miss because they are painted and textured. so you really need additional gear unless your comfy with 25 foot falls (at least).