This is a really fun line that meanders a bit but climbs on large holds and gains some pretty good exposure. It ends just feet below where the second pitch of "King Contrary Man" traverses up and left.
Start on Jig Zag. Boulder up on good holds to a good 0.75" - 1" cam about 10' up (careful getting to here). The rest of the arete is protected okay on small cams, but sling them long. Once at the obvious large roof about 30' up, traverse right under the roof on positive holds, passing 3 bolts. At the 3rd bolt move up past a brief section of rotten rock, and then up the huge "hero" holds and a #2 & #3 camelot placement. Continue up to a ledge and get a 0.75 camelot in the rail. Rail out right and deadpoint up to the huge jug and a 2 bolt anchor.
This climbs the large roof just right of the start of Jeeps Chimney, and left of King Contrary Man/King Of Kings.
Slightly spicy pro on the arete (Jig Zag), leads to good pro through the crux. Bring small cams for start, then a #.75, #2 and or #3 camelot for the steepness above the bolts.
Hero holds through the roof...
BETA PHOTO: Topo
|By Be Esperanza|
From: Asheville, NC
Jun 6, 2012
Juggy, steep, pumpy, and really fun. Gear Beta: I used a #1 C4, a blue metolius, a small offset thingy, and a green C3 (which was key), for the arete leading to the traverse. After the bolts I placed a #3 C4, a #2 C4, and a .75 C4. This thing is as steep as the limestone in Thailand! Quality line. Thanks Nathan
Jan 14, 2013
A purple TCU fits very well on the arete as the second piece. Have your head together on the arete or bring a second set of underpants! The crux section is beautiful!