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Whip-or-will 

Trundle From Down Under 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 624
Submitted By: nbrown on May 30, 2011
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  • Description 

    This is a really fun line that meanders a bit but climbs on large holds and gains some pretty good exposure. It ends just feet below where the second pitch of "King Contrary Man" traverses up and left.

    Start on Jig Zag. Boulder up on good holds to a good 0.75" - 1" cam about 10' up (careful getting to here). The rest of the arete is protected okay on small cams, but sling them long. Once at the obvious large roof about 30' up, traverse right under the roof on positive holds, passing 3 bolts. At the 3rd bolt move up past a brief section of rotten rock, and then up the huge "hero" holds and a #2 & #3 camelot placement. Continue up to a ledge and get a 0.75 camelot in the rail. Rail out right and deadpoint up to the huge jug and a 2 bolt anchor.


    Location 

    This climbs the large roof just right of the start of Jeeps Chimney, and left of King Contrary Man/King Of Kings.


    Protection 

    Slightly spicy pro on the arete (Jig Zag), leads to good pro through the crux. Bring small cams for start, then a #.75, #2 and or #3 camelot for the steepness above the bolts.



    Photos of Trundle From Down Under Slideshow Add Photo
    Crux
    Crux
    The traverse
    The traverse
    Hero holds through the roof...
    Hero holds through the roof...
    Topo
    BETA PHOTO: Topo
    Comments on Trundle From Down Under Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Be Esperanza
    From: Asheville, NC
    Jun 6, 2012

    Juggy, steep, pumpy, and really fun. Gear Beta: I used a #1 C4, a blue metolius, a small offset thingy, and a green C3 (which was key), for the arete leading to the traverse. After the bolts I placed a #3 C4, a #2 C4, and a .75 C4. This thing is as steep as the limestone in Thailand! Quality line. Thanks Nathan

    By jlane
    Jan 14, 2013

    A purple TCU fits very well on the arete as the second piece. Have your head together on the arete or bring a second set of underpants! The crux section is beautiful!