|Penitente - Inner Canyon
This is a stellar, burly route. I love goading young, aspiring trad climbers to get onto it. If you're in the canyon and a short, napolean-complex guy with male-pattern-baldness tries to talk you into climbing it, then it's probably me.
Just past the Virgin painting, where the canyon makes a bend to the right. This is the wide crack formed by the large egg-shaped bolder leaning against the main canyon wall.
Gear to #4 Camalot. I know it looks like #3s, but trust me!
From: Concord, MA
Sep 12, 2007
Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars.
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Awesome route!!! Bring Camalots: 1-#2 with a shoulder runner, 3-#4, 1-#5, and 1-#6. One of the best ticks anywhere.
|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
From: Lander, WY
Jul 3, 2012
If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry".
|By Devin Fin|
Oct 18, 2012
Tape!!!! This thing will feast on exposed flesh.... 1 #2 2#4 2#5 that's it. Oh, an' pack a lunch because this bitch pig is steep!