Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Maniacs S 
7/11 S 
A Virgin No More S 
Air Jordan S 
Anatomy 101 S 
Animosity S 
Apes in Estrus S 
B1 or V5 S 
Bad Rap S 
Banana Slugs in Heat S 
Black Jesus S 
Black Sheets of Rain S 
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 
Brown Sugar S 
Bullet the Blue Sky S 
Candy Apple Grey S 
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 
Colville Express S 
Concupiscent Curds S 
Dazed and Confuzed S 
Dog's Delight S 
El Dedo Es la Llave S 
Forever Young S 
Freddy's Nightmare S 
Friday the 13th S 
Handle with Care T,S 
Harvey's Wallbanger T 
Head Over Heals S 
Heaven Can Wait T 
Hip Hop S 
How The West Was Won S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 
Innocent Mission S 
Intimidator S 
Jabba the Hut S 
Jack and Diane S 
Jewel Of The Mild S 
Josie's  S 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 
Morada S 
Ms. Cool S 
No Intent S 
No Sweat, No Vapor S 
Not My Cross To Bear S 
Nueve a Seis S 
Omnipenitent S 
Ordinary People S 
Passion Play S 
Pumping Huecos S 
Ranck E S 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 
Santa Cruz T 
Schizoid Way S 
Shady Lady S 
Shear Strength S 
Sheer Lunacy S 
Sister of Mercy S 
Soul Boy S 
Tanks for the Hueco S 
Tao of Gymnastic S 
True Penitence T 
Unbound S 
Unknown S 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 
Unknown 5.10a S 
Unknown 5.10d S 
Unrepenitente S 
Vapor Trails S 
Unsorted Routes:

True Penitence 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim DiNapoli, '84, Sam Lightner, Jr., '87
Page Views: 1,649
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

This is a stellar, burly route. I love goading young, aspiring trad climbers to get onto it. If you're in the canyon and a short, napolean-complex guy with male-pattern-baldness tries to talk you into climbing it, then it's probably me.

Location 

Just past the Virgin painting, where the canyon makes a bend to the right. This is the wide crack formed by the large egg-shaped bolder leaning against the main canyon wall.

Protection 

Gear to #4 Camalot. I know it looks like #3s, but trust me!


Comments on True Penitence Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Sep 12, 2007

Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars.
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Awesome route!!! Bring Camalots: 1-#2 with a shoulder runner, 3-#4, 1-#5, and 1-#6. One of the best ticks anywhere.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jul 3, 2012

If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry".
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Oct 18, 2012

Tape!!!! This thing will feast on exposed flesh.... 1 #2 2#4 2#5 that's it. Oh, an' pack a lunch because this bitch pig is steep!