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Routes in Main Wall
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At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beginner's Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Don't Laugh S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elephant Walk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Falling Star T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free and Easy Continuation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang 'Em High T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Headline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headwall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Marvin's Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Mi Vida Loca T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Breed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rockin the House S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shining Path T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swallow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Upper Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bruce Hildenbrand and Mike Clark, February 1978 |
| Page Views: | 921 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Feb 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This route has two cruxes of equal difficulty, but very different protection. The pitch one crux, an undercling left under a small overlap, takes some marginal nuts. The second crux, a traverse right out of Tollhouse Traverse, is well protected with several bolts.
Pitch 1 climbs straight up to a small overlap. Undercling left(5.10a) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb straight up to a short lieback over a bulge and belay on a huge ledge(gear).
Pitch 2 climbs straight up the face(5.6-5.7) passing one bolt about 75' up. Belay on small footholds just below a bolt on the right wall of Tollhouse Traverse(gear).
Pitch 3 clips the bolt and traverse right(5.10a) to a second bolt and then up and right to join Marvin's Mantel.
Pitch 1 climbs straight up to a small overlap. Undercling left(5.10a) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb straight up to a short lieback over a bulge and belay on a huge ledge(gear).
Pitch 2 climbs straight up the face(5.6-5.7) passing one bolt about 75' up. Belay on small footholds just below a bolt on the right wall of Tollhouse Traverse(gear).
Pitch 3 clips the bolt and traverse right(5.10a) to a second bolt and then up and right to join Marvin's Mantel.
Protection
Gear required on pitch 1(undercling - small stoppers; lieback - 2"; belay - 0.75"-1"); for the belay on pitch 2 (1/2" to 1"). The four bolts on this climb have been replaced with new, stainless steel, 5-piece Powers bolts. Thanks to the ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org) for providing the hardware.
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